Bought this as a package deal for 3700 USD and couldn't pass it up. The 1UZ's driver side valve train was completely locked up and didn't find out until after I got it home. Not sure what caused such damage but either way I went to my local junkyard, did my proper checks before pulling it on the one I had my eyes on and was back in business.

I'll be using an A343F (what its out of, I am not sure. Probably a UZJ100)

A343F

HF2A transfer case (stock out of FJ80)


Original donor 1uz

New junk yard donor

There's a risk with buying every donor motor from a junk yard. During the timing belt job, crankshaft pulley removal, I found a cast aluminum piece behind the pulley and I couldn't see at the time where it came from. Removed the water pump to install the new one and thats when I found out where it came from. I made a decision and that decision will live rent free in my head when im out in the woods.....I used JB weld and re tapped and threaded the hole.


The 1UZ's out of the LS400's are all front sump. You must swap a rear sump baffle, sump and pan from an SC400. What a pain in the rear to clean. Took me a very long time.

Sump only
That's literally the only picture I got of the whole pan swap. Pretty self explanatory. I had to move some studs around to work with the new baffle and pan. Just dry fit them all first and you'll see. Also a very good idea to thread chase all these holes and clean all the bolts. Bear in mind that this moves the oil pressure gauge plug from the passenger side to the driver side and you will need the SC400 dipstick tube and dipstick. Install a new o-ring on the dipstick tube, mine was very hard.

I didn't get any pictures of the timing belt job from the "new" junkyard donor motor. I just followed CarTuneNZ process on YouTube for it. Love that guy.

While you're in there that deep, do the front main seal and the rear main seal. They were hard as rocks. I also did front and rear cam seals and half moons. Used CarTuneNZ youtube videos for this.

Once I finished up replacing almost everything on the peripherals of the engine, I moved on to refabbing and replacing and relooming the engine harness. The plugs have a part number stamped on them, just go off of those. The prefix number is 909890-xxxxxx.



Hilariously, I have no pictures of AFTER the refab

Here is a picture of everything bolted up



Because i'm ignorant and just don't know and am figuring out all this stuff as I go, I bought a set of new frame motor mounts from McKinnon's Cruisers out of Australia that are weld-on. I also didn't want to be guessing and such and I haven't done this before and have quite a bit of nervousness figuring out all the angles to how to mount the engine in the frame. Never done this before, first timer, cut me some slack and give me some advice if you've got some to give! These mounts say they use the "FZJ80 Rubber Mounts" that come stock with your recipient truck. My engine was since long gone and couldn't find a set of mounts in stock for a 91 FJ80 so I bought some for a 93 FJ80 which was for the 1FZ engine not the 3FE. Seems like its going to work ok.

I had to notch out one of the sides to clear the water plug thing on the passenger side.

McKinnons Cruisers block mounts


Block mount > 93 rubber mount > frame mount

Block mount > 93 rubber mount > frame mount

Factory mounts in front, McKinnons behind.

Driver side.

Passenger side

Committed now! No going back!

Charcoal canister has been deleted completely. Fuel filter will need to be relocated somewhere....new lines made and all.

I also never got a picture of the engine staged in the hole. Will try to get that taken but basically it was a main in the butt. It was also a bit premature because there is other things I still need to do before it was fully ready to go in.

 

I decided to rather then integrate the 1UZ engine harness into the FJ's factory fuse box, I'll just completely build a new one. That's as far as I've got and have partially started and have been doing everything I can do before committing to actual wiring. This is very intimidating for me and even though i've got EWDs from Toyota for everything, understanding all of it, how to convert it and see what the 1UZ wants is proving to be extremely challenging. I often find myself staring for hours at the diagrams then freezing on what to do next. I could really use some help with this part.

None the less here is a photo dump of pictures of my battery relocation from passenger side to driver side and new relay box. I'm using the passenger side box and just cut it to fit where I needed it to go. May fab a different one up if I get bored.


Its a mess right now but it will be clean eventually! Running a bussman 80A circuit breaker as seen in the photo


New Relay fuse box with + power bus

One thing of note is that the 1UZ uses (3) wires for ignition as well as the FJ80. the "EA3" grey connector as seen in the photo can be used to tie those circuits into the new fuse panel. I am using butt splices for everything until I have verified everything works. This is so that I can cut them without shortening the wires and re splice as needed. Once I've confirmed a circuit is 100% correct, I will solder and shrink wrap. In some cases I will use mesh alex loom + shrink wrap.

I know that I will need to run some wires from the new relay box, into the firewall and all the way to the body plug for the 1UZ body harness plugs. I went to my wrecking yard here and cut off the male ends of the plugs so that I can solder and splice as needed while also having a serviceable disconnect. Again, what and how these wires will be spliced, I have no clue right now. I just know that these will be needed.

II1 plug on 1UZ engine harness, female side.


II1 plug from body harness of donor, male side.

The II1 plugs will be replacing the "IH1" body harness plugs that were for the FJ80. I also have II2 male/female plugs to replace the IH2 body harness plugs from the FJ80.

I removed the dash completely from the FJ80 because why lay on your back in a sprawled position for hours upon hours of on end. I plan to leave it all off until I get the engine mounted, transmission all hooked up and everything. Electrical will be the LAST thing buttoned up. Everything else will happen first.



IH1 & IH2 plugs

 

Does anyone know what the sensor is on the front line pictured below of the transmission? I was thinking of just swapping out the lines for the A341 lines that came on the LS400 because the A343F's are made to go up and over to the driver side which is getting pretty crowded already over there.

 

Current situation. Finishing up some things on the motor and transmission before it really is ready to go in.



Crushed the S out of the transfer case connector. Yay. Replacement on the way.

 

Just realized this transmission (A343F) didn't come with a Park/Neutral Switch. Anyone know if the A341LE's will work?

I also found out the connector on the fluid line boss on the transmission is the temperature sensor. A bit important since the ECU uses it to change shift patterns and expects to see it.

 

Not sure if I had mentioned this earlier but my A343F was missing the Neutral/Park safety switch (NSSU)....not knowing what the PN is for the A343F's NSSU, I went to my junkyard and sourced a NSSU off of a A341 (stock auto trans from LS400). This way the connector from the engine harness plugs right in. This was a shot in the dark as I don't know the differences between the A341 vs A343F trans NSSU's but we're gonna find out if it works. Bolts all lined up and it slid on the shift shaft of the A343F just fine.


I also replaced the crushed connector on the transfer case.
The A341 shift solenoid connector is also where the ATF fluid temp sensor wire goes to on the driver side transmission. I've identified what pin it is and now need to move it over to the passenger side "in line" sensor. It just needs the one wire from the solenoid connector (your positive) and a ground. You'll need to run a wire for this and tie it into whatever is used for a ground for the solenoid connector (TBD). I'll need to source a female connector to match the inline sensors connector.

 

The ground for the trans fluid temp is the brown wire which is on the LS400's solenoid connector.

I found out that this model transmission only needs S1, S2 and a Ground to shift and only (1) VSS (vehicle speed sensor). The LS400 has SLU+, SLU-, SLTN+, SLT- and an O/D clutch speed sensor that isn't used. I identified S1, S2 and ground and then soldered and shrink wrapped them to the A343F solenoid connector. I cut and capped with heat shrink the other wires and put them in the split loom. I have a harness from the FJ80 and from another 1UZ so I had all the wire colors to keep them the same color and was able to cannibalize a proper connector for the inline transmission fluid temp.

A343F 3-pin solenoid connector at trans side

Pin 1 is Red = Ground "E1". Pin 2 Red/Light blue = S2. Pin 3 Red/Yellow = S1

Black connector is the solenoid connector and the VSS is the gray connector


1UZ-FE solenoid connector on left, A343F black 3-pin connector on right.

Oil temp sensor side with the NSSU.

No polarity here for the brown and yellow. AT oil temp sensor

 

I said earlier that I bought a set of engine mounts from McKinnon's Cruisers out of Australia. Then i purchased FJ80 engine mounts from rockauto.com that were for a 1995 - later (1FZ-FE). I have never done custom engine and transmission mounting work so this is a little daunting for me. I cut off the factory engine mounts (committed now) and I bolted all the new engine mounts on prior to installation of the engine so that I could mark where on the frame they'll need to be welded. In these pictures I do not have the fish plates positioned. only the brackets that will be welded.


passenger side has plenty of space

driver side is going to be tricky

I'm not sure yet what I will do about this....maybe 2UZ tundra headers? Maybe some grinding of the mounts will help it not contact the shaft?

passenger side to firewall

driver side to firewall/master cylinder.

As you can see its very snug and there is a gaping hole between the back of the engine and the firewall tunnel for the stock transmission. I don't know if i can get a lower profile master cylinder to award me more space to push the engine further back but it still won't be enough to get the transmission linkage and the transfer case stick to line up where they need to be. I think this is just what it is at this point and I've got to work around all this.



So that's the engine. Here are pictures of the transmission and transfer case location. I'll need to make a custom crossmember for the transmission and an adapter plate for the top of the transmission transfer case shifter. It is currently about 10" forward of the factory shfiter hole. The transmission shaft shifter linkage is also about 10" too short so i'll need to extend it. See photo captions for details.

blue tape on floor is where the shifter mount is lining up currently

underside of stock shifter boot location

trans shift linkage short

trans mount

transfer case location

 

Due to clearance issues with the 1UZ exhaust manifolds, I sourced a passenger and driver side from a 2000-2004 Tundra (2UZ). Luckily someone locally had both a factory brand new passenger and a driver side pair on facebook marketplace for $300. Steal! They are definitely much tighter to the block and my O2 sensor bungs wont need to be relocated. I'll get into my exhaust building in the next reply.

I got the fish plates welded to the frame where I needed them and then got the engine mounts welded where they needed to go. Painted them with aerosol POR-15 topcoat. I do not consider myself a "welder" or a "grinder", I consider myself a penetrator so I care more about what the penetration looks like and what the puddle looks like then what my welds look like. The Harbor Freight Titanium Unlimited 140 works really well so far. This was a huge milestone for me and it was the most stressful. It took me by myself probably ~20 hours collectively to get things positioned and clocked and ground then tack welded, then re-cut, re-ground and then re-tacked before finally final welding everything.

 

The 2UZ manifolds at the flange are 2". The plan is to cut off the flanges, weld a 2" vband to the exhaust manifold, weld the other vband to a 2" to 2.25" adapter, weld a 2.25" in/out 6" flex joint to the adapter, join the 2.25" down pipes into a 2 to 1 Y collector with a 3" outlet, 3" vband with a stub piece of 3" to the outlet of the collector (to provide ease of removal of the exhaust downpipes and collector when I need to drop the transmission), to a 3" in/out resonator, to a borla proxs muffler 3" in and out. So far though, i've got up to the flex joints completed. I will need to build the crossmember before resuming exhaust so that I can fabricate around the crossmember.

When you cut the flanges off of the 2UZ mani's be very careful, they don't give much 2" to weld a vband to after the O2 bungs. I cut my flanges into thirds first then cut the welds right at the base of the weld riding along the top of the flange around the whole manifold, then I placed the corners with the stud holes into a vise and broke the welds off the rest of the way buy bending the manifold back and forth.

The driver side manifold outlet was pointed directly above the frame rail (opposite of where i needed it to go) so I cut it before the weld bung and redirected it to where I needed it to go. As I stated before, I'm not a welder and this is my first time welding exhaust and it has take some practice fine tuning the voltage and wire speed to get a good puddle going with good penetration without torching through the thin exhaust tubing. Who is going to be laying under the truck looking at your welds anyway? This will probably bite me in the rear in about 2-3 years but that's 2-3 years from now's problem . I also am using ER309L wire as a filler which was recommended to me by all the chat bot gods. All of my exhaust will be 304 stainless.....polished....hell no, not polished, come on.





Ended up trimming the adapter a lot to save on length

I clocked the 2.25" side of the adapter to one side when tacking it to the flex joint to provide an angle that pointed away from the frame and fuel lines

Driver side. You can see where I cut the manifold here to be able to clock it away from the frame. Trimming of the heat shield by the O2 sensor required.



This shows the excellent clearance of the 2UZ manifolds. the 1UZ's were heavily pressing on the steering shaft without the engine even seated all the way.

 

I didn't like where the stock A3043 tranny lines were going so I decided to remove them and install 6AN adapters at the fluid line bosses. Once i've got the core support put back and the radiator put back, I'll bring the lines to the transmission cooler. I went with a 19 row stacked plate aluminum cooler.

M20 X 1.5 to 6AN adapter.

 

Jumping ship to iH8MUD forum. Follow build thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/199...#post-16232086