Hey guys, new here! Just picked up 92 4Runner with the 3vz-e auto for cheap(PO couldn’t figure out misfire). Had an engine replacement with an engine from yotashop.com in 2020 at 215k, is now at 230k. When I picked it up, starts but idled like dog like BAD, had to keep throttle on to keep it alive and barely was able to get it on a trailer, kep bogging wanting to die and wouldn’t go above like 2-2.5k. No CEL displayed at any point. I personally Replaced plugs(checked gap), cap, rotor, fuel filter, and verified fuel pump in working order. No change. Changed the fuel pressure regulator, vehicle starts, idled nearly identical but stays idling without throttle, if I give it throttle it will now rev past that 2-2.5k, it sounds like it’s starving for fuel but I’m also smelling fuel, no drips. Changed fan pulley since it was so bad was worried about fan self destructing. Verified timing while I was in there. Started, still runs like ass. White smoke out tail pipe til warmed up then smoke clears up. once warmed up vehicle is idling better but still missing. Sprayed maf cleaner everywhere to check for vac leaks and nothing. Still no codes, just consistent CEL flashing when pins are jumped. However, the whole driver bank is missing, 2, 4, 6. Verified distributor is firing by pulling plug wires one at a time verifying spark for those cylinders. Thinking head gasket or injectors clogged(I’ll ˟˟˟˟˟ a brick if it’s all 3 injectors on the same rail)but waiting for a comp tester to check compression.
Yes, I’ve used the search bar here aswell as other pages/forums.

 

How do you know 2,4,6 are missing if you used the pull-the-plug-lead to test the plugs were firing? (FWIW, the better way to check if plugs are firing is by placing the inductive pickup of your timing light on each plug wire.)

The injectors all open at once, but there is a separate wire to each side. (W to #20 and WR to #10) That is the only difference between 2,4,6 and 1,3,5, so I would suspect a broken wire.

Since driver's side injectors are (almost) accessible, you could try a stethoscope (or long screwdriver) to listen for the injector opening. Or a noid light to check for pulse. Keep in mind that #20 (and #10) switch by grounding.

 

I know 2 4 and 6 are missing because when I pulled lead off the plug while in the motor, no change with how it ran. All 3 plugs. However, on the distributor end, pulled plug wires and was sparking. Gonna check for spark to the actual plugs and do a compression test in the next few days. Did do the screwdriver test on the inj’s, sounds like they’re pulsing, would it still pulse if the inj’s were clogged? Or partially clogged?

 

I'm gonna go with with what Scope103 said. I'm going to be looking for a broken or disconnected ground wire. I'd be looking at everything that was possibly disconnected or moved when the engine was changed

 

I had one that had some of the same symptoms, it was the wiring harness shorted to ground on the pass side front of motor where the harness curves around the engine install hook near the power steering pump (I think, it was a long time ago)... The actual wire that was grounded was for the injectors and caused three of them (not sure which cylinders, but I think they are split into two drivers in the ecu) to stay wide open whenever the key was on. Play with the wire harness while running to see if you can find a short like that. It would be pretty frickin' rare, but who knows?
And if that's actually the probem; you have to buy a keyrack!

 

Compression tested cyl 6-50psi cyl4-~25psi didn’t even bother with cyl 2,1,3,5. It’s running on 1,3,5. Did a radiator test, no exhaust fumes going thru the rad. Head gasket? Valves?

 

I wonder what they 'replaced' the engine with----a rebuilt or another high mileage engine that ran

 

direct from yotashop.com

 

So the engine was new or rebuilt? or is the 5k for engine and install?

 

this is according to their website.

 

Valves on that head too tight?

 

Not a clue man lol. I’ll be ripping it apart soon to see what’s up. Just looking for some insight since it is very odd to me that all 3 cylinders are dead and timing is good.

 

Got the boroscpe down there, valves are burnt. Tearing it down now.

 

I'd say that's a big 10-4 on the valves too tight. Other side may not be far behind. Any warranty on this

 

yeah, got the gaskets head bolts and a knock sensor on the way. Gonna pull the heads in the next few days, got the intake off today. Warranty stipulates 30k miles to original purchaser unfortunately. Sad it didn’t even make it halfway. I think what happens is 1 of two things, either the injectors were toast and causing lean condition on driver side cyls, burning exhaust valves. PO (finally)replaced injectors but it was too late. Or, as per break in instructions for the engine, they didn’t adjust the valves after 5k and just let it ride.

 

Well, shop called yesterday and found both heads cracked. Any reputable websites to get reman heads for decent price?

 

Well that completely sucks, makes you wonder about the integrity of the rest of the build. When those engines were new, the factory never said you have to readjust the valves at 5k. No idea who has cyl heads for sale on a 3.0. I would start with google and read reviews or contact some of the 2.4 (22RE) builders and get a reference

 

I had good luck with CHI, Cylinder Heads International. Their reviews suggest they're hit or miss but I didn't have any issues with mine. Decent price, fast shipping, and no upfront core charge.