jpr2ndgen

My 4runner
3.0 V6
Automatic 340H
SR5 4x4 IFS
wanted to see anyone's 2cents on the subject if I might be missing something.

I've been having this issue where it cranks over just fine and sometimes just makes a single click noise from the ecu and under the hood with no turn over.
in the event when it just makes the click and no turn over I keep turning the key over until it starts sometimes the 2nd turn will crank it over sometimes its 10+ times.
each turn of the key makes a single click from both positions previously mentioned when it doesn't turn over.

Things I've done
Tested the battery, replaced the battery 977cca @ 12.4v after replacement also replaced battery cables and cleaned up engine grounds also cleaned all interior grounds front to rear
Tested the starting system, test came back good
Had the starter tested anyway at the parts store also came back all green.
Tested ignition lock cylinder, read that it should be same as battery voltage on the constant wire, test reported 7v. Replaced ignition lock cylinder. [after order I realized the cylinder is a 2 piece part and does not come as 1. I have not replaced the electrical part in the rear of the housing just the mechanical cylinder]
Tried starting truck in gear to test neutral safety switch, truck wouldn't start nor did I get the clicks from the ecu or under hood as usual during no starts. not ruling the part out though.
Checked fusible link, link is solid
Checked fsm for starter relay but my 4runner model is not equipped with one, searched both fuse box locations anyway. nothing was on the label to identify the location at either fuse box nor did my fuse box have the location that the diagrams in the fsm displayed.

I'm thinking it may be that rear ignition lock cylinder part since that is the electrical part of the cylinder, or its the neutral safety switch not sure how to properly test the switch to rule it out.

link to the electrical part of the ignition lock cylinder $54
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=4700&jsn=1832
link to the neutral safety switch $168
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=4584&jsn=410

scope103

That sure sounds like the ignition switchi s not pulling ST1 up. (And yes, the electrical part of the switch; your mechanical part was probably fine) The "constant" wire is W directly back to the fuse box. If you're getting 7v on that wire under any conditions you must have a serious wiring problem. But I doubt that would ever clear up with turning the key 10 times. If you were measuring on the switched side (B), that points to a bad switch.

I'd be really surprised if you don't have a starter relay. It is true that Toyota moves them around, but on my '94 it's in RB2 (the relay block under the hood). Take a look at https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-287859/ When you find it, pull the relay out and find which terminal switches the relay. Put your multimeter on that terminal and play with the ignition switch. If you get solid switching, you may have a bad relay, which is easy enough to test.