My 79 oil pan has the formed raised ridge running between (and around) the bolt holes. I have a Fel-Pro cork gasket and a tube of Toyota black FIPG. The block and oil pan mating surfaces are spotless (after hours of scraping, peeling, buffing, degreasing, and wiping). What’s going to get me the best outcome re: leaks (or lack thereof)? (a) Cork gasket only. (b) FIPG only. (c) Cork gasket with FIPG on block surface only. (d) Cork gasket with FIPG on oil pan surface only. (e) Cork gasket with FIPG on both surfaces? Thanks in advance! (BTW - I’m in Belize, so running out to my neighborhood Auto Zone for something else is not an option!)

 

I personally use FIPG on BOTH sides , just a skiff , and dont over tighten and squish the cork gasket out .. thats mostly why they leak

 

Thanks for the advice. I’ll do as you recommended. Is that a metric “skiff” or an imperial one?! BTW - nice set up you have there. I’m in a slightly different situation!

 

metric , I'm Canadian eh ! OIC , timing chain time !
I rebuilt this for a customer .. about my 100th (or more)
final out come , good luck with yours

 

Thanks @slacker ! I’m deep in to it right now! BTW what FIPG practices do you follow for paper gaskets - timing chain cover, water pump, etc (on a 20R)?

 

only the timing cover and w/p gaskets . be sure to pack your oil pump with grease , I use white lithium , stops dry start .
be sure to use the correct bolt on the "threw bolt" on the timing cover , as if its to long , it will contact the tresioner pad , and hinder it from working . and use thread sealant , to insure no leak threw the treads .
also , be sure to not overtighten the front "hidden" bolt on the head-timing cover , you can easily crack the boss on that timing cover and cause a leak
best of luck , hope these tips help (just in case you didnt already know)

 

All gratefully received @slacker ! Just to be clear - you do recommend a “skiff” of FIPG on both sides of the chain cover and water pump (paper) gaskets? Thx.

 

yes sir