My 87 4Runner has decided that at ALL times when the vehicle is running, the battery charge and brake dash warning lights need to be on. What is causing this? I just replaced the battery today (this is after this issue with the dash lights started). Is this an alternator indication? What should I check?
If it makes any difference, the car has a manual kill switch and alarm. I don't think those would cause this issue as they have both been installed for a while, but I'm throwing it out there in case.

 

Saw this video on a Nissan, but same situation.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...F995&FORM=VIRE

 

Usually indicates a bad charging system. In my experience it's always been the alternator.

 

Thanks guys! I went and had the alternator tested. It is indeed bad. Wish me luck on swapping that thing out in icky weather we are having here. May the bad one come out easy and the new one go in clean and perfect!

 

On my 86 2WD I have to install it from up under the engine. The PSP and bracket are in the way from the top. Too much of a pain to removed them. Means removing the skid plate and disconnecting the lower radiator hose. Then turn and twist it up into the bracket.

I use rhino ramps from Walmart that makes it easier. I highly recommend them as make all kinds of repairs easier.

For every rebuilt alternator i installed (about 3), the mounting bracket ears have a 'tube' in the bolt hole that protrudes inward too much to fit the alternator between them. Tap the tubes outward some (1/8") to allow room for the alternator to slide in. After that lesson learned it was an easy install.

1st install the alternator upper bolt through the slotted adjusting bracket and semi-tighten it but leave some movement. I's a pain to install after the bottom pivot bolt is in place.

 

Means draining the radiator completely. You can save the coolant, but I always replace it. Just a warning: No matter how well you drain the radiator, when you pull that bottom hose, you WILL get some more coolant out. Wear eye protection, and keep your mouth shut!

I never used ramps, I'm small enough, for an old, one-eyed, fat man, to fit under my 87 4Runner comfortably, before I sold it last year. I CAN fit under my 99 Runner OK, but ramps would sure help. They are a big help when burping the cooling system, I know that. I'm lucky enough to have a fairly steep part of my driveway I pull the nose of the truck up onto, though. I don't NEED the ramps, but they would make life easier.

IIRC, it should take 8 qts (2Gal) of coolant/water mix to refill the system. If you can't fit that much in, you've still got air in the system. Fairly easy way to see if there's still air in there. Make sure you burp it completely, and that the radiator and recovery tank are filled correctly before you stop. Not burping it completely, you can get seeming overheat indications. Ensure the heater temperature control is set to full hot to let the air out of it when burping the system. Rear heater too, if you have one.

Weaseling the new alt into place IS much easier from below, no question. I never could get it in from the top. A good idea is to put a small dab of silicon dielectric grease into the plug on the alternator before you plug it in. It will not only make plugging it in easier, but it will help keep the crud that's floating around in the engine compartment out.
I put a small dab of silicon dielectric grease into every, EVERY, electrical connection I open before I plug it back together. That includes both ends of the plug wires, and so on. It's a real great precaution to help keep crud and corrosion out of plugs, which can cause all kinds of weird, or intermittent, problems, which are a royal PITA to troubleshoot.
Also a good idea, while you're under the hood to check the ground points, and the battery terminals. Make sure they're all nice and clean and shiney.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

After 34 years of truck therapy, two years ago I finally bought a set of ramps. They are quicker and safer than jacking up and jack stands. Great for steering and starter too. Throw a large piece of cardboard on the ground and you can slide in and out easily,plus keeps the hot'cold ground off you. Trash it when it's too greasy.

I clean every mounting bolt thread I remove and put a very very thin coating of anti-seize using a pipe brazing flux brush. Makes next time removal a breeze. Just did my leaf spring eye bolt bushings bolts that were slightly seize. Not anymore.

That lower radiator hose is a mess for sure.

My OCD will make me check everything in the immediate vicinity of where the work is going on. I will even brake cleaner spray clean any crude to keep it clean for future work.

 

Ok guys! I replaced the alternator. Yes, I had to pull off the lower radiator hose because there was too much stuff in the way from the top. And I thought the bucket was in the right place to catch the fluid, but oh no! It went straight in my face and now I know what radiator fluid tastes like. I don't recommend it. I missed a couple of your tips before I dived in. The dielectric grease would've been a great idea! Missed that. My hot wire end was corroded off so I got a 5/16 copper lug to replace that end (which really was a little big), but it seems to be ok. The new alternator also required a longer top bolt to seat which was odd, but whatever. I had to get a replacement 'black' bolt from the hardware store which was a little longer. It's probably going to rust in there, but what are you going to do? The head of the new bolt is 13mm instead of the standard 12mm so next time someone goes to do this job they will be confused. It'll probably be me that is confused so that's ok.
Fricking cold and wet out to be laying in the mud, but I did it.
The battery and brake lights are indeed OFF now!

 

Good job!

 

Just wanted to share a different solution to the same issue I had on my 1990 3VZE in case someone is researching the problem. The plastic plug on top of the ABS box had somehow popped off causing this same exact issue, reconnected and all was well.