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Just got a 1994 pickup - 22RE. 164000 miles. Had been sitting in a garage for about 5 years. Was told it was running when put into garage. Engine cranks but doesn't start. Gas was empty - added quarter tank. Grounded sparkplug and cranked it over - good blue spark. Gas pressure reads 35-37 PSI while cranking. Book says 38-44. Is 37 enough to start? Manually turned main bolt till notch was on 5deg mark. Rotor pointing to #1 plug. May be 180 out but not likely. No work has been done on it. Put external 12VDC to cold injector and heard it click. With long screwdriver, listened to all injectors while cranking over - heard them clicking. What should I look at next? Appreciate any advice.
Well, you've covered a lot of the basics. Welcome to YotaTech.
Check compression. Try a slight whiff of starting fluid. (Make sure all the induction plumbing is hooked up.) Check ignition timing (not easy to be exact when just cranking, but should tell you if you're 180° out). Put the inductive pickup on each plug wire; if the light flashes the plug is firing.
Similar problem here. Truck only goes with a jumper wire from Fp to B+ in the diagnostic block. Has spark and pressure and sounds like described a bit.
From the look of it, you might consider finding the leak that's there. You don't normally get rust like that inside a relay without external input of some kind. That area, and the one on the driver's side as well, are known for water leaks. Hit the top corner of the windshield with a hose, and look in there to see if you can see a leak onto the COR area. Same for the driver's side.
Might want to pull the ECU as well. Check it's back side for corrosion. The plugs, as well. Put a little silicone dielectric grease into them before reconnecting them. Te relay's plug as well. I use that grease in every electrical connection I touch in my trucks. It solves what can become frustrating, hard to find, problems before they exist.
If you feel excitable, pull off the head light plugs, the alternator plug, and the plug wires, both ends, and hit them real quick as well.
Hope the OP found the issue.
The relay fixed my fuel fail and it ran a tad better overall I feel.
Pat buddy, seems like there was some work on the relays just above it and the heater core at some point (relayd left dangling)
that hole in the side of the relay was there when I found it. Seems like a user error on this one (collateral damage/abandoned fix) But also found a leak when checking as you noted.(from the windshield seal of all places) Seems the HVaC had some work that might be the initial damage source to the COR relay.
Other connections seem solid and it's pretty clean down there aside from the surface rust seen in the bottom corner. Seems to have a collection spot. There was a sponge tucked in there on both sides???? (Known fix for condensation down there?)
Anyways. Thats the spot that the OP might have an issue with. COR relay.
I agree. Might be the COR for sure. A tad steep at a dealership (it was $65.00) when we did my (former) 87 4Runner about 12-14 years ago. But heck, $65.00 amortized over the life of the truck to that point isn't bad at all. Or even over the mileage driven, about 150,000 at the time it failed.
Apr 11, 2022 | 07:50 PM
