I usually like to check in here, every now and then, usually when I've got an issue with my '88 22RE Toyota 4x4. I enjoy working on my truck...love the learning aspect (for the most part)!
Actually, now I am having issues with it not starting in the cold. Once the temperature warms up, it will start. I don't know all the technical jargon; but guessing that it might be a bad "cold start" valve?
Also, having an annoying issue with the ignition. ~15 years ago (when I lived in L.A.) my truck was stolen & taken for a joy ride. I thank my faulty fuel gauge for the reason it was abandoned in a neighborhood known as a "chop shop" area, and THANKFULLY a nosey neighbor sent her Son perusing it's interior to find my info. I'm guessing the ol' screw driver in the ignition was the method used by the thief. Nonetheless, every since then, the key can be removed in any of the ignition positions (lock, acc, on, start). Lately, after removing the key from the appropriate "LOCK" position, the blasted buzzer still beeps, and will silence itself at random times; sometimes within :30 seconds or so, sometimes not until you shut the door. Also, for the past couple of winters, when it is cold outside, the damn ignition gets "frozen" and takes a lot of coaxin' to turn to the "START" position. (I usually keep a light bulb on a drop cord running at night to keep it warm in the cab).
So, I know y'all are probably laughing at this point (especially about the "warming method"), but does anyone have any thoughts about these "diva" issues my "La Petite Lune" (yep, that's her name) is having? ? ? ;-? I would greatly appreciate any helpful input!
Chukki

 

Happy New Year!
In less words pls describe your problem in non-technical terms:
You turn to start position, starter does not crank, OR
You turn ignition to start, starter cranks but you do not get combustion = you do not hear, feel nor smell the VROOM

 

As said above describe a bit more on what happens, but the ignition is a battle you will fight until replaced, search key/ignition replacement and that should lead to good results on replacing.

 

RAD4Runner & 'Disco' -Thx 4 responding.
(RAD) When I turn the key to start, "starter cranks but (I) do not get combustion = (I) do not hear, feel nor smell the VROOM!"
(DISCO) I will ndeed "search key/ignition replacement." I figured it was going to be a rabbit-hole! ..and Yes, M/T.
(I am new to this posting. Didn't mean 2 break rules!) (-; Thanx guys!

 

Have you ever replaced the key cylinder since the theft?

 

Happy to help. Next to.check is if you are getting spark and if getting fuel.

 

Just make sure the cold start injector plug is seated all the way in the injector itself.

Not my pic. by the way.

 

Hey:
"Swampedout" - NO! I have never replaced the key cylinder since the theft. It never gave me problems until lately.
I plan on researching more info on this key/ignition replacement.
"Maco35"- yep! The cold start injector plug appears to be seated properly. Perhaps they go bad? Would this be something to replace or clean?
Today, after shoveling snow off the hood, I removed the intake hose from front of EFI area & shot a little engine starter in there. She started up after x2 tries. So, thoughts? Suggestions?
Chukki! (-;

 

Hey Maco35,
Yep! The cold start injector plug appears to be seated properly. Perhaps they go bad? Would this be something to replace or clean?
Today, after shoveling snow off the hood, I removed the intake hose from front of EFI area & shot a little engine starter in there. She started up after x2 tries. So, thoughts? Suggestions?
Chukki! (-;

 

Hey RAD4Runner,
Definitely getting spark. Checked all that.
Today, after shoveling snow off the hood, I removed the intake hose from front of EFI area & shot a little engine starter in there. She started up after x2 tries. So, thoughts? Suggestions?
Chukki! (-;

 

That would seem to indicate you're not getting fuel, or enough for combustion when starting. I know on the 3vz (and 5vz) the fuel pump doesn't run until cranking, meaning it doesn't prime the system before you turn the key to start. I'm not sure if it's the same for the 22RE or not. But verifying you are, indeed, getting fuel would be my next step in the troubleshooting process. I do know the cold start injectors can get clogged like any other injector, I had issues with cold starts until i ran two bottles of fuel system cleaner through it (1 per tank) and it never gave me issues again. The clogged injector was discovered by a local shop I had it at to troubleshoot the cold start issue. Can't find em new anymore unless I went non-toyota so I went with the fuel system cleaner route first to try to stick to toyota OEM parts.

 

If youre trucks been sitting with gas in the tank, its probably a good idea to run fuel cleaner anyways. Ive had good results with seafoam but do your own research.

As far as replacing the key cylinder, its not that hard. Someone jacked my 1980 toy right before I bought it, so I started it with a screwdriver for months. But all you need is a drill to remove the pin that locks the switch in the column. Sounds like thats not your mechanical issue here but i found a great satisfaction from starting my truck with a key!

 

Before you go swapping parts, you need to make sure your cold start injector time sensor is plugged in and working. 22RE Performance has a fantastic write up about this very common problem. Sadly if your sensor is bad(please test it first), the fix will be about 250.00 for just the sensor. No way around it, so make sure yours is the actual problem. Read the write-up and of course do all the other troubleshooting others have mentioned. BTW what latitude do you live in? I ask because we are in Southern CA(lowest temps are high 30's) and even though our '88 22RE has a known bad sensor it still starts when "cold" for here.

Here is the link. “My truck cranks for a long time before it starts when it's cold. I need a need a new COLD START INJECTOR!” Ummmmmm, probably not. Call 22RE if you have questions as those guys up there are really cool on the phone. Good luck.

 

All good points above, especially not blindly replacing parts.
parts. I have a write-up "How Cold Start Injector Works". Pls note the CSI timer switch gets ground from the engine block so make sure mounting threads are bare, shiny metal. No sealant or teflon tape.
I had been experiencing hard cold starts and thought I.got it figured out. However, it came back after 3 years. I bypassed CSI.swirch to eliminate doubt on it but no effect.
Now my issue is opposite of yours. it readily starts (like Ta-da-VROOOM!) in a cold so cal morning, but not in warm weather. I am suspecting that the temp sender to ECU (next to CSI timer) is not sending ECU signal that it is cold enough. Not much of a bother, adventures are funner so it's in back burner. LOL!
Check that sender also. Make sure it sends correct voltage to ECU when cold.

 

Hey Macro,
I double checked that the cold start injector bolts were tight. I actually have a gasket (paper) between this plate & the grey surface. It has not been tampered with and starts when it's warm, not when it is cold however. So I am guessing it is seated fine. Thoughts?
Chukki