Was driving my 95 4runner 3.0 to work today - as I do every day, and 1 mile into my trip the power felt like it just died and the truck stopped running. Went back later to retrieve it and it started for about 5 seconds and then shut off again. It has not done that again in several hours of trying.

Reading through some threads here is what I have checked.
1) I have power at the ignition relay, and it is operating correctly.
2) I have power at B+ and at FP during crank. - Jumping these does not fix the no start issue
3) I can hear the fuel pump cycle when I open the flap in the VAF per the info here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/

So I don't think its the COR, but what else can I check?

 

Ignition (spark) and fuel.

I'm not familiar with an "ignition relay." If you're thinking of the EFI (MFI) relay, you already tested that if you have battery voltage to ground at B+. But that relay has little to do with ignition.

You can check for spark the old-fashioned way (pull a plug, hold it against a ground while cranking and look), but the better way is with the inductive pickup of your timing light (you DO have one, don't you?). If the light flashes, the plug fired.

Your fuel pump is running, but to what end? First, are you sure you have gas in the tank? Remove the the fuel return line from the FPR and replace it with a 6mm (1/4") line to a suitable container. Run the fuel pump with the jumper. There is no spec, but I get about 1/2 liter/min. If you get nothing, no fuel is making it to the rail.

(Avoid "cracking" a high-pressure line to see if it sprays fuel. Not only is that insanely dangerous, you must replace both crush washers every time any such connection is loosened.)

 

Yes I mean the EFI relay. I had issues when I first got the truck that turned out to be a bad fuse connection down in the driver side firewall. I thought that may have re-surfaced, but it checks out.

Yes I have a timing light- great idea - not sure why I always go with a spark plug come to think of it. I'll check for spark and fuel return and see what I find. Thanks for the tips.

 

Will it run on starter fluid? If it will run then I'd suspect the COR. Check your spark and fuel. You can take the COR relay apart and see if it's badly corroded too. It's easy enough to pop it open. Sometimes just giving that relay a good whack will do the trick.

 

OK Timing light indicates spark. Looks like we have a fuel issue. Won't be able to check till this weekend, but getting closer.

 

Update - I went ahead and installed a new fuel pump and filter. May the engineer who designed that system step on a lego in the dark. No access panel for the fuel pump and hiding the filter under the transfer case crossbar was an evil trick.

Car started for 1/2 a second and then died

Checked the COR using the diagnostics here - the COR checks out fine.

B+ to fuel pump runs the fuel pump, as does the flapper in the air flow meter. - doesn't start with either of those running either.

Confirmed again spark at the plugs w timing light.

Feeling a little stuck. What should I try next?

 

Any chance this could be a timing belt issue?

 

Will it run with starter fluid?

 

Stumbled once, but Not starting after multiple tries.

 

Well, it sounds like you're getting fuel, air, spark but something isn't communicating. Need to verify timing I think.

 

Yep - time to pull timing cover and see whats up. Will report back with the next mystery.

 

Pull the distributor cap and make sure it's rotor is pointing at the right position when the crank is at TDC for #1 cylinder. Both the intake and exhaust valves slightly loose. It should be pointed at about 10 o'clock.
It may be the crank is actually 180° out of phase. If it is, the distributor rotor will be pointed about 10 o'clock, but the exhaust valve will be compressed.

If this is the case, the distributor is pointed at 4 o'clock when the crank is at #1 TDC, or the distributor is at 10 o'clock but the crank is 180° out of phase, you need to stab the distributor again to get it all lined up correctly again.

If you need help on how to do this, let us know. We will be happy to go over a how-to stab the distributor correctly.

Good luck to you.
Pat☺

 

OK Took it to TDC - removed timing belt cover. Distributor rotor is pointed at 1, Right cam gear lines up perfectly, left cam gear is 1/4 turn CCW from the top. Looks like the timing belt slipped. Noticed that the top idler can be easily turned and not really under tension at all. Looks like a new timing belt is in order.

 

Sounds like it.

But timing belts don't stretch. Something else is very wrong. My first guess is a failed tensioner.

Let us know what you find.

 

Yesterday I got the front end of the engine all torn down to get at the timing belt. Really happy I found the thread on this tool to hold the crankshaft pully so that I could remove that. My Haynes manual had me going at the starter - which is now very difficult to remove with the Thorley headers blocking it. Looks like my engine must not be a 1995 like the rest of the truck as it has a spring tensioner, and the TB kit I got has a hydraulic one. I will need new parts before I can finish this. That being said, the tensioner still appeared to be doing what it should do. I do note that my water pump was probably on the way out as the bushing is loose there for sure.

 

I need to make one of those tools as well! Good find!