1986 4runner, 22re.

I've pulled/blocked off all vacuum lines except
-power steering idle up
-evap
-fuel pressure regulator
I tapped my temp sensor in where the throttle body coolant line went, so that circuit is also gone.
Blocked off the IACV vacuum lines and had those coolant lines plugged, the electrical connector is still plugged in.

When I turn it on it will idle between 1000-1200RPM. The idle screw is turned in all the way however. I've basically sprayed the entire engine with carb cleaner trying to find a vacuum leak. Couldn't find one at all.

I'm out of ideas

 

Stuck (open) egr valve? I had it once on a newly rebuilt 20r.
must be a vac leak somewhere…

 

that could be possible. It really stumbles when it's cold and you give it gas. Runs fine once it's warmed for a few minutes. The engine has been sitting for several years so I'm honestly just surprised it runs.

 

Explain where you now have the temp sensor? If you blocked off that coolant circuit the temp remains low reading on the sender. The engine could then stay in warmup mode and higher RPMs....

 

4runner's at school so I have to show you on my junk motor.

I put the temp sender here:

that connected to these lines for the throttle body de-icing, I just capped those off:


Then for the IACV I just plugged the lines for it and took off and blocked the coolant lines, it's still plugged in just hanging in the engine bay.

 

But all the idle up ports on the intake are gone, only the idle screw is there. So unless it can raise the idle via the injectors there's no way that can be caused by my deletes

 

AFM flapper stuck open will also cause high idle. Grit and dirt in there can make it stick.

 

Recent TPS changes? Possibly bumped? Can't ever set idle without TPS properly aligned (It's always why I have high idle after I think I have everything else set right...)

 

Spray carb cleaner/starting fluid or something volatile on the idle screw while it's idling. If the idle changes, air is finding its way around the idle screw.

 

good call. You’re sure there’s still an o-ring on the idle screw, yes?

 

Correct me if I’m wrong but unless the IAC spring heats up it will always cause a metered leak since it thinks it’s cold.