I bough this 4runner recently, 22re manual, drove it home about 1.5-2 hours. It did great! Got home home and replaced the valve cover gasket and thermostat. The next day took it to a gas station and was sitting in it idling and it was like the key was turned off. Since then I have checked the afm, tps, efi relay, spark, timing chain, vacuum lines, cor, and cold start injector. The tps was bad so I replaced it with a used one, but it still won’t run. Any advice on what to check next would be much appreciated.

 

Did you check the EFI fuse? Heck, all the main fuses involved in allowing the truck to run.

You need 3 things for the truck to run: Fuel, Air, Spark. Which are you missing? There are fairly easy ways to check each one.

Do you have any CEL codes to read? If so, it might give you a good starting point to work from.

Could the key switch in the steering column be bad? They can develop build up on the contacts, preventing it from making contact. A multimeter is your best friend.

When you replaced the TPS, did you align it correctly? A very important step to take.

All this good stuff is in the FSM. I hope you have one, whether paper or PDF. If not, the PDF version is available on this forum. A quick search will turn it up quickly.

Just the few ideas that come to my pea brain. I'm sure the experts in here will have many more.
Pat☺

 

I actually got it running today. It was one of the three wires that goes to the igniter someone done a crappy job on a “repair”. But now it’s got a few new parts whether it needed them or not. Looks like it will need a circuit open relay though. I have a pdf fsm but I’m going to order a hard copy I hate getting grease all over my phone lol. Thanks for the reply!

 

Details, photos!

 

I’m at work right now I’ll try to post some tomorrow.

 

Why do you say that?

 

Instead of getting grease on your phone, just print out the pages you'll need for a job. Like having a paper FSM, without the worries of getting grease on that. After all, if you have a printed page, and get it greasy, who cares? You get done with the job, throw it away. Need it again? Print that page out again. Easy peasy.

As RAD asked, why do you think you need a new COR? I had to replace mine, so I might well get information I should have found in the FSM, and didn't. Just being nosey. Always a chance for me to learn something new, if I'm not very careful

Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

Before I fixed the wire issue it would only run a second or two before stopping. When I fixed the wire it would run for about 10 seconds so I bypassed the cor and it ran indefinitely. It could also be the afm if it is I have a buddy with an extra one he is giving me.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...liable-303166/

 

That’s just too many steps and you’re also assuming I have ink in my printer lol. I should have a hard copy somewhere my first car was an 87 4runner and that’s one of the cars I learned to work on. My dad was old school and didn’t believe in taking a car to a shop when we could do it.

 

You bypassed by jumping Green and Brown pins on fuel pump check connector?
It could be the contacts in AFM, wiring from contacts in AFM to one coil of the COR, the coil of the COR, or the contacts of the COR. Testing procedure for COR off the truck is simple.
Also, with ignition on, when you move the flap on AFM as if there is airflow, OR when you jump Br and G wires on FP check connector do you hear the COR click? If you do, then you know the coil works, and contacts are suspect.

BTW, link above is to my thread. From working on your post I learned another thing today (and updated my thread):
On the 1986 22R-E, fuel pump check connector bypasses the AFM contacts and energizes second coil (clicks) of COR to power FP.
On the 1988 22R-E, Fuel pump check connector bypasses contact of COR and directly connects B+ to fuel pump.
I don't know about the 1987. I hope O.P. can share schematic.

I don't maintain a printer, either. I very seldom print that the expensive ink cartridges merely clog.
Please scan and share schematic page showing COR and related parts.
I do not trust others working on my vehicle, last couple of projects that took a very long time and cost me a few bucks were fixing things others broke.

 

Let me start this with saying I hate electrical problems. I work swing shift so as soon as I woke up today I went out to the 4runner and was going to check to see if the cor clicked when I jumped it. Well I feel like the biggest idiot the connector to the afm was only partially on. Now she’s purring like a kitten. Lol.

Also I didn’t realize that was your post I’ve had it up on my phone for a few days as a reference. I’ve only had this 4runner for 8 days so I haven’t had a chance to look to see if I still have the fsm or gave it away when I sold it.

 

This is the wire (the red and black one) that had came apart because someone just twisted it and put electrical tape over it.

 

Good job troubleshooting!
See? "Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool."
Am I right or am I right? LOL!

 

What made me find the wire was I pulled the plugs and they were fouled and had gas on them so I changed plugs. While in the process I was looking at the wire with electrical tape and was like well I should fix that while I’m here. Lo and behold it was the problem. And the afm was just stupidity on my part for not hooking it up.

Now all the fun begins it’s completely stock 86 with all original interior (which is actually in pretty good shape) mostly original parts and a couple oil leaks. Next is new cv axles and tires

 

Really? CV axles? Those hardly ever move because WE have manual locking hubs. On most days the front wheels are free wheeling. The front axles are disengaged from the transfer case and the wheels. Those get minimal wear, IF ANY. Worst case, if the boots were torn for some reason and grease escaped and water got it, then, yes they could rust and freeze. Here again, use of your your senses is free - less that what replacement parts cost; feel, see, hear if the CV axles/joints turn smoothly.
Spend your money on adventures not on replacement for good parts [or accessories that would look good on the truck at the mall or office ]

 

Well the drivers side doesn’t have a boot on it at all and looks pretty rough. And the prices aren’t terrible way better then my 07 4runner.

 

I see. Then, just inspect / replace that boot or the CV axle. Just check if right side is smooth. I believe 3rd gen 4Runner is where the CV axle always turns with the wheels, causes more friction and wear, even on the driest of So Cal days. Outside the U.S.A. even the newest Land Cruisers have the option for free-wheeling / manual locking hub.