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So I'm in the midst of a timing chain job on my 22RE Pickup and I ended up having to use a gear puller from O'Reilly to get the oil pump drive gear off of the crank. Unfortunately, the puller was missing the cone and I was an idiot and didn't put the bolt back in at first so the threads on the rod kinda chewed up the first few threads where the crank pulley bolt threads back into.
I eventually realized my mistake and put the bolt in to finish pulling the gear. However, as I mentioned above, both the threads on the crank and the bolt itself got a bit stripped/chewed up. The bolt still threads into the crank, but there is definitely more resistance than before. I haven't wanted to mess it up more so I haven't tried cranking it on with a ratchet, just finger tight. I'm sure I could crank the bolt back on if need be, but I want to avoid any serious damage.
What should I do? Get a new bolt? Would it be possible to just chase the threads on both the crank and the bolt if I go rent a tap/die set? Below are some pictures of the threads.
If money is tight, you could try to see if it will thread back in. You can get a new bolt if you really think you need it. I should have bought a new bolt for mine, but a bad from the factory head gasket had already set me back a couple days, and I did not want to wait days more for a crank bolt.
Did you use a puller to remove the harmonic balancer? If you did use the puller on the harmonic balancer, and you threaded the puller bolts in too far(like I did) the rock/dust guard will be bent. You can bend it back. Just glad I noticed it before I installed the balancer, or I would have had a big time rub.
Last edited by snippits; Jan 23, 2020 at 04:29 AM.
If money is tight, you could try to see if it will thread back in. You can get a new bolt if you really think you need it. I should have bought a new bolt for mine, but a bad from the factory head gasket had already set me back a couple days, and I did not want to wait days more for a crank bolt.
Did you use a puller to remove the harmonic balancer? If you did use the puller on the harmonic balancer, and you threaded the puller bolts in too far(like I did) the rock/dust guard will be bent. You can bend it back. Just glad I noticed it before I installed the balancer, or I would have had a big time rub.
I bit the bullet and ordered a new bolt. Should I still chase the threads inside the crank?
I think I'm good on the harmonic balancer - I did use a puller but it seems pretty straight to me. I'll check it out again before putting it on though - thanks for the response!
If it were me, and I've messed up I don't know how many threads in bolt holes and bolts all over both my engines, I would chase the threads with a decent quality tap-n-die set. Because of my heavy-hands, I went out a bought a pretty big tap-n-die set, but you can "borrow" the right tap from any number of part's stores. Just take the bolt in, since you're going to buy one anyway, and ask to borrow the right tap so you can chase the threads for where the bolt fits.
Just make sure that once you're done tapping the threads out, that you clean it all out thoroughly. Compressed air, WD-40 followed by carb cleaner, something like that. You don't want a bunch of little metal bits left in the hole.
Given the torque applied to that particular bolt, I wouldn't bother with Loc-Tite, but you might consider using an anti-seize compound on the bolt's threads when you put it back in the final time. Not really required, but it might help next time you go to remove it. Then again, given that particular bolt's location and function, anti-seize may not be needed, or a super good idea, I don't know. I've never used anti-seize on that bolt, myself. Up to you.
... Given the torque applied to that particular bolt, I wouldn't bother with Loc-Tite, ...
I think any thread-locker on that bolt would be a bad idea. Think of how many on this site have had difficulty removing the OEM bolt.
Anti-seize probably wouldn't hurt.
I agree on chasing the threads with a suitable tap, though since taps are "used up" I'd be surprised if you could borrow one. Having said that, I have borrowed a thread chasing kit from Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...set/391372_0_0 This goes up to 14mm; I don't know the thread size and pitch of the crank bolt. As large as the bolt is, you can measure it with a ruler.
And yes, please post the size here in this thread when you determine it.
I think any thread-locker on that bolt would be a bad idea. Think of how many on this site have had difficulty removing the OEM bolt.
Anti-seize probably wouldn't hurt.
I agree on chasing the threads with a suitable tap, though since taps are "used up" I'd be surprised if you could borrow one. Having said that, I have borrowed a thread chasing kit from Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...set/391372_0_0 This goes up to 14mm; I don't know the thread size and pitch of the crank bolt. As large as the bolt is, you can measure it with a ruler.
And yes, please post the size here in this thread when you determine it.
A post on a different forum said that the bolt is M14 x 1.5 - unfortunately bigger than the size that O'Reilly carries but I can check out AutoZone as well.
I bit the bullet and ordered a new bolt. Should I still chase the threads inside the crank?
I think I'm good on the harmonic balancer - I did use a puller but it seems pretty straight to me. I'll check it out again before putting it on though - thanks for the response!
If you can get a "thread chaser", OK. Not same thing as a tap. Use a tap and you will likely ruin whats left. A tap will grab the first thing it can and try to cut some threads. Especially if its a new, sharp tap. My $0.02
In most cities there is a bolt/hardware specialist store. In my city it’s called Barnhill Bolt. They carry just about every single size tap you can think of. Take your bolt to said store and have them measure it. Purchase the tap and tap oil as well, that’s very important. If your not strapped for cash you can by a tapping handle as well. Thread the tap in as straight as humanly possible, the tap the threads. Two turns in, one turn out. Add oil every so often. It should be fine.