Hey everyone,

So I posted on here last week about my 22RE seemingly burning oil between changes. I was befuddled by the fact that my spark plugs were clean (checked them again after posting last week, no oil build up), my compression was good (170-175 across all 4 cylinders), and I was not experiencing any blue smoke. I decided to replace the original PCV valve and grommet and hope that this would solve the issue, but as I was doing that, I figured I might as well prod around the engine to see if I missed anything.

Lo and behold, I found a ton of gunked up oil underneath my crank pulley (I'm guessing this means front main seal?) and where my oil pan connects to the block.

Additionally, when I pulled the valve cover, I found that my driver side timing belt guide is snapped at the top bolt. Luckily, there is no railroading on the cover, but I'd imagine now is a good time to do that job before it gets worse.

So here are my questions:
1. Does this seem like I'm on the right path? I don't expect it to burn 0 oil given its age, but it does seem to be leaking based on the pictures.
2. I'm planning on dropping the oil pan but not removing the head. I've seen other people on here do it this way - is there anything specific I should be careful of?
3. I went with an OSK timing kit with the OEM guides. I was debating on going for the metal ones, but some research showed that people were pointing out that if the metal guide breaks for whatever reason, it will most definitely destroy the engine, whereas the plastic one should just fall into the pan. I have 195k miles on what I assume is the original chain and guides, so I figure it can last another 100k miles especially given that I've been maintaining the car much better than the previous owner.
4. I'm a little confused on the process of re-installing the new chain. So from the videos/write ups I've seen, it says to put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke (verify this with the rotor under the distributor cap) before pulling off the cam and crank pulley/sprockets. Then install the chain with the bright links in the corresponding positions to the dots on the sprockets. My confusion lies in not fully understanding how to get the timing chain properly aligned so that I can start the car and then adjust the timing. I obviously don't want to grenade my engine. Am I wrong in thinking that as long as I do not move the crankshaft or camshaft at all once I set it to TDC and remove the old TC that as long I put it on properly it will be ok? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Pics below.


Lots of gunk.


Not sure why this is so oily? Is it getting flicked around?

 

This dude has a three part series on timing chain replacement and he’s a member on here.

https://m.youtube.com/user/TheAlexManVideos/videos

Get a FSM or a Haynes/Chilton manual. Intimidating? Yes. Difficult? These are some of the easiest engines to work on.

When taking the timing cover off be sure to keep track of all the bolts. They’re specific sizes and lengths for each spot.

 

Set the engine to top dead center and leave it there. I think you’re getting confused with engine timing (crank to cam relation) and ignition timing.

When you put the the new chain on, make sure the bright links line up with the marks, the chain guides are already installed, and install the tensioner while keeping slack out of the drivers side of the chain.

 

Yes, you're right I was confusing the two. OK that makes much more sense. Can you explain the last little bit a bit more? About keeping the slack out of the drivers side of the chain when installing the tensioner?

 

If you just drop the oil pan to do the chain, make sure to use some sealer on top of the timing cover where it meets the bottom of the head gasket. If you don't, it's going to leak. The new type head gaskets have a rubber bead attached to the bottom of the head gasket that seals that area.

Does look like your front seal is leaking. Check the inside of harmonic balancer for a groove when you take if off. If it has one...probably will...install the Toyota Type T timing cover front seal. This seal is thinner than the original, and rides on a different spot. No need to sleeve it.

 

What should I seal it with? Just black oil resistant permatex?

 

Toyota form in place gasket or the rtv equivalent.

As for the slack comment, it will make more sense once you get there. The drivers side of the timing chain is straight and the passenger side is pressed in (tensioned) by the tensioner.

Line up the bright link on the cam mark, bring the chain down the drivers side, loop around the crank, line up the bright link on the crank, continue to engage the chain around the crank, keeping the slack to the passenger side, install tensioner.

Just follow the fsm/Haynes/Chiltons. You’ll be fine.