I'm getting what sounds like timing chain slap, but only when the engine is cold, seems to go away when it warms up. Only have about 15000 miles on the rebuild. I recently did the oil pan gasket and refilled with 10W-40 and all was fine for a few weeks, could the heavier weight oil be causing the tensioner not to work properly until the oil is warmed up? I did the timing chain cover gasket about 1000 miles ago and everything looked good, no wear on the guides.

 

interesting... I wouldn't think the oil would make too much of a difference. Are you sure it's the timing chain? How's performance when it does this?

 

It's definately coming from the front of the engine and from listening to it, that's the only thing I can think if that it could be. Sounds like a card in the spokes of a bike, too fast to be valves. No change in performance, just annoying and don't want to lose a guide completely and saw into the timing chain cover. All I can think of is a finicky tensioner.

 

I would take the valve cover off and see what the chain feels like and looks like. I would also double check that you have the valve clearance properly set. I always set it and then go back through and double check them again right after because sometimes the screws move the slightest amount throwing the adjustment off.

 

I plan on pulling the valve cover this weekend, just had it off a few weeks ago to put in a new valve cover gasket, had a leaky rear half moon. While it was off I checked the valve clearances and they were all spot on so I didn't have to adjust anything. But, like I said, it's definately not a valve, definately chain like sound.

 

I would say it has something to do w/the tensioner then. Unfortunately, if that is the case, that is one heck of a lot of work to fix something like that. Maybe if you took the valve cover off and then got a long rod you could maybe push the tensioner in a little bit and see if it is working right. Maybe it's just kinda stuck and needs a little help. Definitely have someone hold a flash light so you can see down there.

 

Does it sound like an exhaust leak? My 22R will have an exhaust leak when I first start her in the mornng, but it slowly quiets down with the temperature gauge (cus steel expands).

 

Nope, not an exhaust leak. Funny, cause I just fixed a exhaust leak from the number 4 port using the "longer stud method" I found here on Yotatech, worked like a champ.

 

If the timing chain hasn't been replaced already, replace it NOW! if you don't know timing chains go bad on these engines, your new one should last years and years to come.

 

yes, but he says he just replaced all of that about 15000 miles ago w/the rebuild. Shouldn't be a bad timing chain already.

 

Broken drivers side timing chain guide, pulled the valve cover and I can see it laying down in the bottom with some grooves along the side of the head/timing chain cover.

 

yep, that would do it. At least you found the problem though! Tip: Get the upgraded STEEL ones and you'll never have that problem. lol. They aren't expensive either. good luck w/the repair. If you need any help go ahead and ask me, I just got done tearing down practically my entire engine and I have lots of pics.

 

Was looking for the metal backed guides, but can only seem to find either up to 84 double row, or 85 on up single row. I need a 84 single row. Asked EB and he dosn't make em. What gives? Can I use a 85 single row?

 

I'm 90% sure the 84 single row is the same as the 85 single row. I believe 84 was a transition year with some older blocks, some newer ones.

 

Give this guy a call, he will know. They build these motors all of the time and he will have what you need. I bought a bunch of stuff from him when I rebuild my top end. Really top notch stuff w/great prices. Beats everything I've seen on the web so far.

His name is mike, but he has several people that work at the shop.

(888-355-5527) (509-299-3200)

E-MAIL MTTARESKI@CHENEYCABLE.COM

 

Finished up the guide replacement last night. I found the correct metal backed guides from partsdinosaur.com. Replaced the tensioner as well, the one I pulled off was very hard to compress as well as sticky in some spots, unlike the new one which was smooth as butta. All Japanese made parts, quality looks excellent, so hopefully I'll get much longer life out of them. Here's a pic of what I pulled off and out of the oil pan.

 

so did this fix the noise, how does it run?

 

Yep, all better, nice and quiet.