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T4R starts, but quickly sputters out. Throwing the following codes:
22 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal)
24 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal)
32 (Air Flow Meter signal.)
41 (Throttle Position Sensor signal)
Things I've checked
Fuel pressure was 30, now 45 after fuel pump replacement
Leaky injector(s) replaced with rebuilt units. System now holds steady at 43 psi.
AFM one parameter out of spec, replaced with rebuilt one (tested)
A little background
Truck was running fine, a little hard to start before the current situation. Overnight, the truck sputtered but chugged in and barely ran the next morning. After pump and injector r and r and good fuel pressure, it does not idle at all. No change after AFM replacement.
I have a known working ECU. Plugged in with same result.
Do you have all the induction plumbing hooked up? codes 24 and 32 together are often due to an (electrically) unplugged VAF.
Fuel pressure at idle should be 33-37psi (38-44psi using the jumper with engine off) http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...87fuelpump.pdf 43psi is pretty high; you might look at the fuel return line (if plugged, it will push up the rail pressure) or the FPR. (though in that case I would expect code 26 (too rich), but you might be flooding out before getting into closed loop).
Do you have all the induction plumbing hooked up? codes 24 and 32 together are often due to an (electrically) unplugged VAF.
Fuel pressure at idle should be 33-37psi (38-44psi using the jumper with engine off) http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...87fuelpump.pdf 43psi is pretty high; you might look at the fuel return line (if plugged, it will push up the rail pressure) or the FPR. (though in that case I would expect code 26 (too rich), but you might be flooding out before getting into closed loop).
Thank you Scoop. I may have flooded it with all of the pressure testing. I will check the fpr for leaks. And check the pressure again. I am thinking now I should check my VAFM harness? Pull plugs? If you have any thoughts on next steps, besides a 3.4 swap, I am open. Thank you.
PS The truck was not throwing codes before I rebuilt the fuel injectors. It ran really rough, but I was able to drive it into the garage. I am sure it has nothing to do with it, but I never park the runner outside, but was working on my daily, and did that night.
Well, before you get rolling, reset all the codes (remove the EFI/MFI fuse for about 30 seconds). Some of those codes could have been left over. If you're concerned about your harness, run the FSM checks on the VAF first. Unlikely that you'd lose both the temperature sensor and the vane sensor at exactly the same time, but testing the VAF is much easier than finding a harness problem.
Well, before you get rolling, reset all the codes (remove the EFI/MFI fuse for about 30 seconds). Some of those codes could have been left over. If you're concerned about your harness, run the FSM checks on the VAF first. Unlikely that you'd lose both the temperature sensor and the vane sensor at exactly the same time, but testing the VAF is much easier than finding a harness problem.
And in case no one else has told you:
Thanks for the warning, but I have a freshly rebuilt tested AFM. It seems I have a wiring issue.
Just to close this one out, my ecm fried. Must have done it while replacing injector wires. I have one on order, (896613512184) from ebay. New in box rebuilt units from Denso. No core. 82 bux.
Dec 21, 2019 | 02:02 PM
