Newby here with questions about my 97 Toyota T100 SR5 extra cab. I have IFS factory. It has auto front axle lockouts. Any good? Where and what type of diff. Lockers at a budget build price, be purchased from to do the job. I pull a 17' utility trailer usually loaded with a heavy amount of firewood on and off road. Do the lockers come available to engage and disengage? I spend most of my time on the road rather than off road. I got stuck last night in my 96 two wheeler. Had enough of it and going to build my 4x4 ASAP. I also noticed a mention of the IFS on this particular year and gen truck that said"it's best to stick with it if it came factory. True or did I misunderstand? Any advice would be very much appreciated. I'm already running 31/10.50 tires and don't really want to go any bigger as there's no big terrain in my area. All sand and reasonably sized hills in my region of northern central lower Michigan. I will armour and bumper the truck but I'm not very knowledgeable on the diff lockers for 4x4s only my racecars, street racer back in the day.

 

Auto hub lock outs are ok, but your cvs will spin all the time and your relying on vacuum to make them work. You can change to manual hubs, and the stock manual hubs are the best.

Axle lock outs are different from differential lockers. Axle lock outs merely connect the CV to the wheel for 4wd, not to be confused with a differential locker, which makes both wheels spin at the same time.

 

Hello and thank you for your time and help in this issue with my questions about the auto lockouts and the yes or no on the differential lockers. I am familiar with the auto and manual lockouts and know that the manual lockouts are always best. My true mental strain is trying to understand the differential lockers. Having true four wheel drive sounds great in theory but for me, I have to be able to return to stock driving mode in the winter and/or on the road under normal driving conditions. Do the diff. Lockers engage manually or automatically. Are they solid lockers like a spool system or can you disengage them is my question?

 

There are different types of locker, and shades of grey between locker and an open diff. You can get air lockers, engaged by compressed air, e-lockers, engaged by electronics. These systems let you choose when to lock the diff with a switch in the cab. Then you have limited slip systems (AKA "posi"). These will provide power to both wheels, not just the one with the least traction, but not as consistently as a locked diff (you may have to apply brakes to get both wheels spinning in some situations). TrueTrac is a popular brand of limited slip differential; unlike many others, they don't wear out, but they're expensive and not an option for your front unless you switch to manual hubs. Here's a brief description of toyota diffs:
https://www.lcengineering.com/LCTech...ARJANUARY.html

TrueTracs are nice because, unlike lockers, they disengage automatically, so you can run them on the street, and make tight turns on the trail, but they're expensive. Maybe for you a spool up front would be the cheapest option, but you gotta be very careful driving locked unless you're in dirt; real easy to spin out trying to turn on wet pavement with a locker (only an issue if you're in 4wd). A likely more expensive, possibly more versatile option would be a TrueTrac in the rear.

For a real budget option, given that unlike many of us you're not actually trying to get into situations where you'll get stuck, you could get a portable 12v air compressor (for airing back up if you air down to get more traction), a shovel, and maybe some traction devices like knock-off MaxTrax.

 

A lot of guys are blown away with the improvement of just a lunchbox locker in the rear.

 

Okay I understand the logic of the diff. Lockers now. I wasn't aware of the capabilities of air/electric engaged lockers. I've looked around online and have found nothing like this. A"truetrack" was mentioned, is this a locker type or a posi type system? I'm very low budget building an SR5 T100 97 4x4. I tow a 17' utility trailer loaded up with 4-5 face cord of red oak firewood at a time. The sand in the summer and the snow in the winter can make it difficult to get through without getting stuck. What would be the most economical but effective solution for my situation?. I definitely like the sound of true 4 wheel drive. Where does one find these options for purchase and roughly how much do they cost? The truck is down to the frame now so I figure now would be the time to get to the front and rear differentials. It was easy for me back in the late 80,s- early 90,s because I had a 79 Toyota shortbed that I put actual landcruiser axles in and it went through any thing I came across. If anyone has any budget build ideas for me pertaining to the lockers or true track, please clue in the newbie here. Thanks. Roger

 

Selectable are expensive (arb, elocker). Ratcheting lockers are a good middle ground (aussie) they allow for the diff to be locked when needed, but unlock when not on the throttle to make corners easier. Spools are cheap and offer no slip, not great for on road. Or you can weld the diff which does the same as a spool, and could potentially be free.

The t100 is a neat truck, its kinda a mutt. You can use any locker for 86-95 pickup or 4runner in the front, and any locker for a Tacoma (some one fill in years here) in the rear.

 

I must say that I'm blessed to belong to a site with so many good people that are willing to share their knowledge and experience with me. I appreciate your help and support more than you know. Thank you.
I posted previously in the wrong forum ( site feedback ), and my question relates to the last response I received from this thread. The statement was ( someone fill in the years here ) and my original question from the other post was will a rearend from a 05 Tacoma fit in my 97 T100? The original 97 rearend had a leaking axle seal and the previous owner never fixed it, and continued to run it even after the diff. was dry of any oil. At least 1000 miles after. The rear end is now howling like mad and the axle bearing on that side is grinding and making crunching noises, SOOOO... Now I have to change the whole thing or rebuild the original. The cost of the change is much cheaper than the rebuilding of the original. I can purchase a good 05 Tacoma rearend assembly for $200.00. I can't find even a third member for less than 400.00 used. I think that the choice is clear on my budget, If the 05 rear end will work. Anyone who may know anything about this?

 

I literally just googled "t100 rear axle compatibility" its that easy.

Check this page out.

https://www.lcengineering.com/LCTech...OYOTATECH.html

"All 2wd and 4wd T100's, '00-06 Tundra's, and ?? Sequoia's use a newer/stronger 8" 2-pinion diff. Tacoma 4x4's and Tacoma PreRunner's that don't come with the electric locker (aka "non-TRD), as well as V6 Tacoma 4x2's also came with this diff. This diff commonly and mistakenly called an 8.4" or 8.25" diff, possibly to imply its extra strength. The ring gear actually measures 8". The extra strength of this diff comes from the bearing cap/truss and large diameter pinion gear shaft.
LSD's available is the TRD/Kazuma clutch-type 3-pinion LSD, the OEM 4-pinion Tundra TRD LSD, and the Detroit Trutrac.
Lockers available are the Powertrax "Lock-right," "No-Slip," ARB Air Locker, Detroit Softlocker.
This diff cannot be fitted to an older style 8" axle because it uses a larger diameter mounting bolt pattern and because more space inside the housing necessary to accommodate the large bearing cap. The different bolt pattern also makes it very impractical to swap in an electric locking Toyota diff (the whole mounting flange would have to be re-done using a special jig).
- Carrier bearing truss and newer housing adds significant strength over V6 and 4cyl diffs
- Uses V6 carrier bearings, larger pinion bearings
- Uses shims for backlash adjustment instead of threaded adjusters
- Twelve 12mm Ring gear bolts
- 10mm axle housing studs with 14mm nuts
- 30 splilne axles
- 30 spline pinion

* 4Runners do NOT use this diff at all. Late-model 4Runners still use the V6 8" diff above.
** This diff is NOT swappable with V6, 4cyl, high-pinion, or electric locking diffs. This diff cannot be fitted to an older style 8" axle because it uses a larger diameter mounting bolt pattern and because more space inside the housing necessary to accommodate the large bearing cap."