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Battery and Brake Light stays on

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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 01:50 AM
  #1  
1994Toyota4X2's Avatar
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Battery and Brake Light stays on

Last night I flushed my heater core and I think I shorted something out. After the flush, I drove around for a bit and the Battery and Brake lights came on (see pic)

1994 Pickup
22RE

Any suggestion how to fix the problem?

lights
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 03:19 AM
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Discombobulated's Avatar
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Mine did this when my alternator was failing, hows your voltage output?
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 08:53 AM
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As Discombobulated suggests, put your multimeter right on the battery posts. You should get about 12.6v with key-off, and about 14.1v with engine-running.

Don't try to diagnose this without a multimeter. They're cheaper than dirt, and they are the only tool that works.
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 11:14 AM
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Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994Toyota4X2
...
Any suggestion how to fix the problem?...
Like Scope says^^^ and search "how charging system works"
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by snippits
Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
I wish I did. Where were you on Sunday?

I am going to take off the alt and change the regulator and brushes. It's the OEM ALT so very likely the problem. I'll also take a reading to see if I am on the right track.

Thank you Toyota gurus.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 05:32 AM
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Odd. If you're getting 14.1v at the battery posts, are you STILL going to remove the alternator? Because it's OEM?
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by snippits
Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
Originally Posted by scope103
Odd. If you're getting 14.1v at the battery posts, are you STILL going to remove the alternator? Because it's OEM?
Update - I am getting 12.6 at the battery and it doesn't change when I turn the engine on.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 02:50 PM
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Okay, now what? You could just replace the alternator on the blind. There's a chance that will fix your problem, and if it doesn't, you're only out $125 or so.

Or, you could check the voltage at the alternator output (fat wire). And check the excitation voltage (red wire; should be battery voltage with key-on). If you have no output but do have excitation voltage, most auto parts stores (O'Reilly's, Autozone) will test your alternator "for free." (They want you to buy the replacement there.)
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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I am up and running

Took the alternator to a shop and had it rebuilt. Lights are off and my is truck is happy

Last edited by 1994Toyota4X2; Oct 17, 2018 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 02:13 PM
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Yay!

A happy truck makes for a happy owner!

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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 05:06 PM
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Good call on the repair... thank you for posting your outcome!
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