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Last night I flushed my heater core and I think I shorted something out. After the flush, I drove around for a bit and the Battery and Brake lights came on (see pic)
As Discombobulated suggests, put your multimeter right on the battery posts. You should get about 12.6v with key-off, and about 14.1v with engine-running.
Don't try to diagnose this without a multimeter. They're cheaper than dirt, and they are the only tool that works.
Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
I wish I did. Where were you on Sunday?
I am going to take off the alt and change the regulator and brushes. It's the OEM ALT so very likely the problem. I'll also take a reading to see if I am on the right track.
Did you remove the water pump coolant hose to pipe without putting a shower cap on the alternator? If you did, you soaked the alternator. If not, then carry on.
Originally Posted by scope103
Odd. If you're getting 14.1v at the battery posts, are you STILL going to remove the alternator? Because it's OEM?
Update - I am getting 12.6 at the battery and it doesn't change when I turn the engine on.
Okay, now what? You could just replace the alternator on the blind. There's a chance that will fix your problem, and if it doesn't, you're only out $125 or so.
Or, you could check the voltage at the alternator output (fat wire). And check the excitation voltage (red wire; should be battery voltage with key-on). If you have no output but do have excitation voltage, most auto parts stores (O'Reilly's, Autozone) will test your alternator "for free." (They want you to buy the replacement there.)
10-03-2018, 01:50 AM
