I got an 86 toyota pickup that will not start. I turn the key and all i hear is the starter solenoid clicking but wont turn the motor. I'm turning the key over and over until finally if im lucky it turns the motor but at the same time I need to be giving it some gas or it will not turn on. Any advise will be good.

 

Could be starter isn't in great shape...
after owning and working on our 87 4runner for over 20 years.
i quit fighting the mile of wiring, relays, bad old connections and went to the john deere place and got a good push button switch for a tractor...
not only does it start every time now, if you don't know to push the starter button it won't start... good anti theft protection

 

I've had three 22re trucks before owning my current 4runner and even though I didn't wrench on them hardcore like I'm trying to do these days I had to replace a starter on all of them. the starter seems to be a weak link but not really I guess since the OEM ones lasted well over a 150,000 miles before the clicking began. If I recall When the starter goes you just get a click but usually it's a progressive issue that starts as a click but will then try to turn over if you turn the ignition enough and might actually start the truck like that for a while and eventually goes to not working at all and just clicking. to fix it you can get the copper contacts from the dealer and open it up and replace them if you are inclined to do so which saves a good chunk of cash or Napa would probably be my next choice for an aftermarket brand. Is you truck a clutch? can you push start it to verify the motor is running normally and it's just a starter issue?

 

Look up "starter relay" in this section of the site. It might not necessarily be the starter itself.

 

 

You can chase your tail with relays, starter, switch etc. I'm telling you. I've been there done that... here is another solution ... the push button start is a direct 12v to the starter and works every time, its a cheap easy fix... just sayin

 

Need O.P. to:
1) State whether he's got an auto tranny or manual. If manual, this^^^ absolutely needs to be done because like I said many times in many thread, the starter relay is wired wrong from the factory.
2) Confirm that it is indeed the starter solenoid click he is hearing, and whether it clicks energetically.. I'm talking what Toyota calls the starter solenoid, not what Ford calls the starter solenoid.
If solenoid clicks energetically, check wiring to battery positive and starter negative to engine bock to batt. negative.

 

 

lol... then my advice would be... stick around you might learn something hehe

 

 

I would NOT do that.

Why make a mess of the wiring and your interior if you don't have to??

Push buttons are for new cars and tractors.

Plus, diagnosing the starting circuit properly in the first place will help you identify the bad part(s) and replace only what is bad or broken. Also, you will learn how the starting circuit works in your truck.

 

it doesn't make a mess of the wiring, you can't even see my push button.... the wiring for the starter system from the factory is a mistake.... why replace parts, waste time on something that isn't going to work, when you can FIX it permanently, easily, cheaply, and neatly?
i remember now why i stopped offering advice of forums... I'm out ...

 

 

Here is where RAD4Runner, our resident electrical guru, and I will disagree a little.

The factory starter wiring is configured a little differently depending on year and transmission type (automatic or manual).

For 1986-1988 Toyota Trucks and 4Runners with manual transmissions, the positive supply for the starter solenoid (built into the starter) comes from the AM1 fusible link, to the AM1 ignition switch contacts, through the starter relay, then to the starter solenoid.

The positive side for the starter relay also comes from the ignition switch and the ground side control comes from either the clutch start switch on the clutch pedal or the "clutch start cancel / safety cancel" switch.

For 1986-1988 Toyota Trucks and 4Runners with automatic transmissions, the positive supply for the starter solenoid (built into the starter) comes from the AM1 fusible link, to the AM1 ignition switch contacts, through the park / neutral start safety switch, then to the starter solenoid. There is no starter relay for these trucks with automatic transmissions.

In both cases, the full current needed to energize the starter solenoid goes through the ignition switch which is about 12 amperes.

Over time and use, the ignition switch can become worn and pitted, causing resistance to the current needed to energize the starter solenoid which could lead to a no-crank scenario. High loading of the switch contacts causes the switch to wear faster.

You can read about RAD4Runner's write-up on his starter circuit upgrade here, which includes a wiring schematic that shows what I described above: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51975700

Here is where RAD4Runner do not quite agree on some things, however I do agree with his upgrade.

I do not believe that Toyota wired these trucks wrong from the factory. I think the wiring decision was intentional.

By looking at the fact that the starter relay was only found on trucks and 4Runners with manual transmissions and how the relay was placed into the circuit, I think the relay's only real purpose was to act as an interruption switch for the clutch start switch and "clutch start cancel / safety cancel" switch.

I think that Toyota felt that the ignition switch and associated wiring was capable of handling the full ~ 12 amperes required by the starter solenoid and did not need a starter relay.

So why is the starter relay there? It is there for "clutch start cancel / safety cancel" switch.

This switch has diodes, resistors, coils, and switch contacts that cannot handle the ~12 ampere load, however, the switch can provide a ground through the much lower current of the starter relay coil.

What Toyota neglected to do is to take advantage of the starter relay and keep the high current off of the ignition switch, which would extend the switches life. This seems like a pretty obvious thing to do, and I have no idea why Toyota did not take advantage of the relay for a while until later models.

Here is where I agree with RAD4Runner :

What RAD4Runner has done is move the high current electrical path off of the ignition switch and used the low-current control (coil) side of the relay circuit to go through all switches.

This setup helps extend the life of ignition switch contacts, and as a byproduct, also reduces the resistance caused by long, relatively small diameter wiring. This setup will provide the full current needed by starter solenoid for a long time to come.

RAD4Runner's fix is what Toyota should have done from the factory.

With that said, the starting system works just fine without the modification. The modification gives you a longer-lasting, more robust starter circuit, and is recommended to do after a problem has been found.

 

Well said old 87...

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52368224

We can:
1) make it academic like we're trying to get our Ph.D's, or
2) O.P. can replace all parts he thinks are broken, or
3) If starter relay is present, O.P. can fix what's broken from the factory for $11 + 30 minutes labor, or
4) If starter relay is not present, O.P. can add one for $30 + maybe 1 hour labor
LOL!

This^^^ was quite possibly what Toyota engineers were thinking.
However, we are finding out today that they were wrong. Therefore, something needs to be fixed.
I think back in those days Toyota mechanical engineers were much better than its electrical engineers.