The Truck is a 1988 4x4 22re 5speed manual. The transmission, front diff, rear diff and transfer case are stock.
Stock brakes all around. No lift kit. No rust,160k miles. I intend to use the truck for weekends in the mountains, not rockclimbing, and overlanding in the western US.
The plan: I pick up my 22re performance motor from Jim next week. I am having the stage 2.5 built, it will have the dual row timing chain.
The front diff has been rebuilt with stock 4.10 gears, the transmission will come out when the motor is pulled and be gone through. the Tcase and rear diff will also be looked at and resealed/rebuilt if necessary.
So I need some direction for:
1. Clutch: stock or heavy duty? I have looked at the marlin crawler HD and wonder if someone with experience could chime in. Is it hard to live with as far as pedal exertion? Is it overkill or something that I can put in and get lots of service from
2. Cooling system: Stock radiator or 3 row metal? I will be using new hoses and fluid coupling. What other "while I am in there" things would you add for a bulletproof cooling system?
3. Alternator: Upgrade with a GM(?), or other similar unit? I want to be able to add possibly a second battery, or recovery equipment and think starting there makes the most sense. Thoughts?
4. Suspension: This is where I am most torn. I know it will be a compromise, because of the dual use, and I do want a streetable ride, but competent off road.Sorry, no SAS. I am leaning toward stock height, going through and fixing stuff I have already ID'ed
As worn ( both sides upper and lower BJs, shocks are done, front wheel bearings and hubs need attention) In the rear, new shocks and any bushings that need replaced.
What would you do and why?
What wouldn't you do and why?
I am going to stay with 31x10.50/15 all the way around, and am actively looking for a set of steel wheels to mount them on. I have a set of SR5 alloys and the rims the truck is on now, some kind of blacked out spoked rim. Not crazy about them.
For now the exterior will stay stock,
So let me hear your opinion on products that would work, those that won't and your experiences with them.
I will post pictures at some point of the truck, which is my first one. I love this thing and am looking forward to
the build.
Thanks in advance,
John

 

Is this your first Manual Transmission??

Even the best clutch can be ruined by poor technique .

If I was doing another clutch I would go with the Marlin Crawler 1200 pound clutch

Since these trucks use hydraulics no matter what clutch is installed correct the pedal feels the same

I am old fashioned I like my Copper Brass Radiators for the reason torch solder and flux I can fix anything but a huge hole and have miles from the nearest mall

As to electrical I would with a newer high Output Toyota alternator rather then GM but that is just me

Have plans to outfit to camp with a Fridge, Microwave and lights deep cycle battery ?

 

Hi there, I represent CARiD.com one of the forum vendors and we carry some parts that you may need for your Toyota truck. I'd recommend you to check out our suspension section, we have some nice replacement shocks that will maintain a normal height and improve damping like Bilstein B6 or Bilstein B8 (for 3-4" lift). Plus we offer various body and suspension lift solutions ranging from 1" up to 4": https://www.carid.com/1988-toyota-pi...nsion-systems/

 

Hey Wyoming,
Thank you for the response!
Been driving clutches all my life,never owned an automatic. The marlin clutch looked like a good choice, I am leaning that way,and will add a new flywheel, or look into having mine resurfaced.
I don't know if that would be worth it, just from a peace of mind standpoint.
Anything else i want to be aware of? I already did my clutch master and I have a new slave cylinder sitting in my box of parts. I am new to Toyota, but have done a couple of German cars.
Cooling
I am trying to stay with OEM parts, (aisin?) and noticed on the LCE parts website they are selling an HD radiator,
In talking with the engine builder, he was of the mind that an HD radiator was not necessary. stock was fine. The motor in the truck now did not overheat, when i pulled the rad. and ran a hose through it it looked good.
Rusty deposits on the inlet and outlets. I thought about having it tank cleaned, and I talked with a local guy and they tell me that because it is plastic they cant do it.
Is this accurate?
Electrical
I do want the ability to add components(fridge,lights,and a second battery) as I develop the truck and want to start building that capability from the alt. One of the things that I looked for was a wiring system that did not have lots of add ons from previous owners.
The only thing added to this truck was a stereo, and the install was clean.
So a good base.
I will check out the high output from Toyota.
Thanks again

 

I like OEM parts, unless for some particular need you want the specific characteristics of an aftermarket specialty part. Your 4runner has legendary reliability, and that's because of the tremendous quality control Toyota imposes on the parts they use. It's really hard for any aftermarket company, with a fraction of the R&D and testing resources, to match that. In terms of being engineered for reliability, you really can't compare your 4runner to any other car you've ever worked on. It's in a class by itself.

A few specific comments:

Clutch: For your use model, an OEM clutch will easily last past 100,000 miles.

Cooling: I can't speak to the 22re, but the stock radiator and cooling system is more than adequate for the 3vze. I've pulled a 2500 lb trailer over Monarch pass in Colorado on a summer day - 10 miles of 2nd gear at 4000 rpm - and barely budged the temperature gauge.

Electrical: My '94 is still on the original alternator at 218,000 miles. I've never had a GM alternator go as far as 100,000 miles.