SuaveGato

Hello again,
First thanks to all of those who have helped me through this clutch R&R thus far? the trany & T-case are now out and I am shopping for parts. Just wanting some advice on what parts y'all would recommend? Here is my shopping list and REMEMBER: This is NOT a wheel, just my G.F.'s DD. Don't want to "over spend" but also don't want to go cheap and have to do this again in 2 years!

So based on the above info. and the list below, what would y'all recommend?
Thanks,
biGjOhn

AUTO ZONEKRAGENNAPAPEP BOYSCAR QUESTTOYOTA DEALER -OEM

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Clutches, clutch MCs and slaves:
http://www.wabfab.org/products/clutches/clutches.htm

Jay351

I had purchased the 1200ftlb semi metalic (OEM manufactures) clutch from marlin crawler

199 us I also got their shifter seat and socket.

I would highly recomend their products.

Victor

I have the same Marlin clutch. Couldn't be happier with it. He has new disks which may be even better. Spend the money now or tear it down again later to get that replacement "lifetime" warranty part at the store.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

Wabfab or Marlin. Parts are cheap compared the time it takes to replace it.

SuaveGato

Thanks folks. Just curious though... would y'all still be recommending those "heavy duty" 4x4 clutches for a bone stock, female driven DD? I mean, I SURELY DO NOT want to be tearing it down again in 75K cuz of "cheap parts" but at the same time, is a Marlin, Wab-Fab, Center Force & or Crawler etc. more geared towards wheeling & HD?

One person said that they are harder to push in as well and for a little woman might wear her leg out unnecessarily in heavy traffic etc.? I'd like to just resurface the existing flywheel and get as close to OEM quality clutch as I can, would your recommendations above fit that bill? Think "street queen", Daily Driver, female driver? Ideally I'd go with OEM but you saw the prices!

I've heard good things about the LUK brand and think that I will stay away from the AutoZone "lifetime warranty" one for sure? who cares if they replace a P.O.S. with another P.O.S.! I still have to yank the damn thing back out! I think that's why they offer it, who's gonna come back for a "FREE replacement" if the damn thing wore out in 50K! Anyone have any luck with the LUK?

I'm sure the ones Y'all mentioned are great clutches but I'd prefer something local, OEM-ish, and not Heavy duty. When I redo my 1996 Taco hunting Wheeler in a few weeks, then I'll definitely go for the Heavy duty line!

Thanks again Guys,
biGjOhn

SuaveGato

P.S. I've also read from some folks to ONLY go with OEM TOYOTA Pilot Bearing & Throw Out Bearing? Any thoughts on that? Same logic as the disc? I.E. don't cheap out cuz the labor to replace it isn't worth the pennies you save?
thanks,
biGjOhn

86SR522REEFI

Ive heard good things about Toyota, Sachs and i had a marlin crawler clucth in my old truck. worked fine, but i can leg press alot so the pedal i didnt notice. The marlin crawler is relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

I had the marlin HD, and my wife would not drive my truck because of the pedal. OEM might be the way to go. I don,t know if Wabfab or Marlin sell OEM. I think the HD Marlin was like 1200# and I think stock is 900#. Good luvk. robert

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

We have both OEM style and HD clutches if you will look at the link I provided. I personally do not like the HD clutches.

Victor

My Marlin HD didn't change pedal pressure at all. BTW - I completely flushed the flud in that system and put new brake fluid in. Perhaps that is why mine feels stock?

KLF

For a DD, I would only go OEM. And for sure I would only use OEM parts for the TO & pilot bearings, and all seals. Yes, they are worth the extra expense.

DO NOT PUT THAT POS AUTOZONE CLUTCH IN YOUR TRUCK. Don't even consider it! I bought one of their clutches many years ago for my old '85 4Runner (gaad I miss that truck now), and it failed within 1500 miles. Ya, I was pissed. Springs and dampers fell out of the disc, scored the flywheel, big mess. I took it back and they offered me another one for free. I DON'T THINK SO!! I made a huge scene in the store until they gave me my money back, then I wrote a flaming letter to the company that made the POS.

Change the fuel filter while you have the crossmember out of the way.

justinking060310

wab fab or marlin is my vote - it will feel the same to her, you can just be confident that you will not be messing with it again.

Kat

thook

I'll chime in..

WabFab sells good ones for sure. So, does Marlin. What you are looking for is the 900lb clutch, not a 1200lb. Both of these folks (as the Wabbit has said for himself) sell them at a better price than OEM and the quality is just as good. (In fact, both are Aisin/Seiki...which Toyota corp. uses) Their related components are also top notch. Again, at a better price than OEM. MOST of all, their customer service is stellar. You can feel good (I can, anyway) you are at the same time supporting private individuals who have nothing more in mind than offering you quality and satisfaction and not overinflated prices. I really can't say the same for Toyota dealers.

LUK I have looked into. They are good, but from what I'm told by folks I trust there are better. Namely...see above.

I went with a Marlin 1200lb clutch. I tow a lot, so I needed one that heavyduty. My wife isn't fond of it, but will drive it if need be. She really likes her automatic, the plush loving girl she is.

Jay351

I noticed an EXTREMLY minor change in pedal stiffness but nothing to worry about.
It took me about 3 days till I didnt even notice it.

I would go with this clutch kit again in a heartbeat!

drew303

Go with wabfab or marlin, dont get crap from the autopart store

I have marlins semi-metalic hd clutch with the 1200lb# plate and the pedle didnt stiffen up over my worn out stock one. While your at, if your going to install a new slave cylinder get a new master cluch cylinder while your at it. Always replace both at the same time. When one goes, it creates stress on the other and it eventually follows suit.. AND.. buy OEM clutch hydraulics! They're not expensive.

goodluck

SuaveGato

I ended up getting the Luk Gold Series for her truck. I have friends that have them and have hd good "Luk" and my mechanic also recomended them. I'm not going to do the Master & Slave as of right now... they are both working fine, of course if they do go out in the future, easy enough to get to to replace at that time.

As for my truck (96 taco) I will definately be going with a HD Wab-Fab, Marlin or similar... (Luk doesn't make a Gold for that truck anyway...) And since I'm "biGjOhn", pushing in a stiffer more heavy duty clutch won't be a concern of mine. Besides, I need / want the extra clamping force for towing & hauling. One clutch guy I talked to said that that year Taco's clutch with the 3.4L is already pretty damn strong. 10" disc, bigger than the 4runner etc. and he said it's built well etc. So it should suit my purposes fine.

thanks again,
biGjOhn

gte175x

Bumping this old thread...

Are there any addtional parts needed when changing the clutch? i.e. rear main seal, I've read fuel filter while your in there, fork spring, etc....

Is flywheel re-surfacing needed?

Anyone have suggestions on where to get this done in SoCal? San Diego?

TNRabbit

Double Ditto to all the above....

I bought the new flywheel from M/C along with the HD clutch & couldn't be happier. Everything for the clutch came with it, including pilot bearing. It was going to cost me $30 to resurface my flywheel, which looked like it had been burned & hit with 10,000 nails~ the new flywheel was $75.

Either WabFab or Marlin Crawler are tops.

As to what else to replace? REPLACE THE REAR TRANSMISSION SEAL!!

87 'runner boosted

AW MAN....not good...i just bought the duralast one, figuring i didnt mind doin the work to swap the clutch if need be...hope i dont have too many problems, will let you know if i do. doin the swap this weekend.