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What makes you think it's fake? It looks like a real Weber to me. Typically the ones that are cast with the name and made in Italy are real. The Chinese ones just have a "W" sticker on the top and a "Weber" sticker on the side and the castings have no markings.
That one does look old and being made in Italy would add to that idea. The newer Webers are all made in Spain now. Maybe it's a 32/36. You'll have to pop the air filter off and look down the barrels to see if they're different sizes or the same size.
Another way to tell which isn't as fail-safe, is the choke on the knockoffs are usually black while the original Webers have white covers on the choke. Doesn't really apply for you though since you have a water controlled choke.
I guess I might have a diamond in the rough? LOL. I will take off the filter today to take a look down the barrel and let you know. The thing that got me really thinking was the front part of the carb where the fuel line enters. It doesn't look like the new webers. I'm in the process of sourcing some components to de-smog the little beast. I wanted to make sure I could follow something step by step, but the carb looked different and I held off. Are there any concerns I should have before I begin?
Welcome Brandon,
To better understand, put a pic of your truck and put the details of what you have. Also, put your truck description in your sig this way everybody knows what your talking about, and your location.
LCE has a video on a desmog And a kit ti do it, might want to take a look
I guess I might have a diamond in the rough? LOL. I will take off the filter today to take a look down the barrel and let you know. The thing that got me really thinking was the front part of the carb where the fuel line enters. It doesn't look like the new webers. I'm in the process of sourcing some components to de-smog the little beast. I wanted to make sure I could follow something step by step, but the carb looked different and I held off. Are there any concerns I should have before I begin?
No problem! The top of the float bowl does look different from a 32/36 or a 38/38 where the fuel is entering but it's probably just an older design or a different model.
One other thing I saw from your photos is that idle advance port on your distributor's vacuum advance is open. You are definitely going to want to cap that or hook it up to pull manifold vacuum. In your photo it hooks up to the old steel vacuum line and then is just open to air. Get a pack of caps from Autozone in the Dorman Help! section and plug it.
Keep us updated on the carburetor though! Having learned the ins and outs of the Weber's I've owned I'm really intrigued to see what else is going on with yours.
No problem! The top of the float bowl does look different from a 32/36 or a 38/38 where the fuel is entering but it's probably just an older design or a different model.
Keep us updated on the carburetor though! Having learned the ins and outs of the Weber's I've owned I'm really intrigued to see what else is going on with yours.
Good eye, it looks from the top one like of the other (usually smaller) Weber progressives. Since it is a 20R that might not be a bad thing.
I just got off the phone with LCE Performance and they've given me some options. Looks like I'll need the EGR block plate kit and the EGR crossover kit. Will post more pics when they are available! Stay tuned
To keep this going, regardless of your lost image, if the barrels are different sizes then the carburetor would also be progressive rather than synchronous. So if you open the throttle by hand while looking down the top of the barrels, the smaller throttle plate will open before the larger throttle plate opens.
If both plates open as soon as you open the throttle then the carburetor is synchronized and the barrels are almost certainly the same size.
May 24, 2018 | 07:36 AM
