i have a 98 toyota tacoma 4wd with 250,000 miles on it what type of oil should i use ?

 

Depends is this going to be the first oil and filter change since new ??

A little History of the vehicle in question would be a big help .

Has this been taken care of with excellent records kept detailing every thing done??

Taken to the Quicky Mart for oil changes when the oil level is no longer on the dip stick

Most likely someplace in the middle

What ever 5/30 oil brand you happen to like.

 

You need a strategy. You can do cheap dino and low-end filter and do fine with a 3000 mile OCI. Or go high end synthetic and a premium over-sized filter and look to 7k OCI or more, especially if controlled with periodic Used Oil Analyses. These trucks are not real particular--any halfway intelligent program will work if it is kept to.

If it's a neglected burner, I'd go with the first type. If the engine seems tight and in good shape, I'd go with the second type.

 

If the engine is in good shape I would just go with any name brand regular or high mileage oil and an OEM Toyota oil filter.

Then just change the oil at regular intervals and the correct viscosity according to the owner's manual and you should be fine.

I personally think there is too much "hype" around using larger oil filters. I feel that Toyota knew what they were doing and specified the filter they used for a reason.

 

I try to stick with one brand, but typically go with whatever non-synthetic 5w30 the store has in the 5 quart jug...unfortunately it's not always the same kind so I end up switching brands here and there. Just a lot easier for me right now to pour the used oil into the empty new oil containers, so having to splash and spill into 5 or 6 individual quart bottles is pretty annoying...thus the preference for 5-gallon jugs...

I go with 3,000 mile intervals. OEM Toyota filters.

 

Hi guys,
I have 50,000 miles on rebuilt engine, so I would not consider it high-mileage.
I want to use Mobil1 10W-40 synthetic but Walmart only carries it in "High Mileage" version which supposedly has conditioners for seals. I've read somewhere that the conditioners make the seals swell. Swelling, although a good band-aid for leaking seals, does not sound good for the actual health of the material. My engine has no seal problem, except for around the half-circle (half-moon) that was not installed properly by rebuild shop - and that I will fix myself. So my seals do not need "conditioning".
Your thoughts please?
Cheers!

 

Try another Walmart or order it in to your store !!

Buy a case

If they plain out don`t carry it at all I am sure you can find it some place else.

 

Thanks.
Yeah, next time I'll order ahead of time.
Walmart's got the best deal. 5-quart jug for $23. It's $9 per quart at auto parts store.
Funny thing is if one orders online for pick up at store, it would take about a week - even if that store actually has same item in stock - LOL!

 

Wow I always said that part of the country was different .

Here you can buy online till you get to the store it is ready for pick up.

I always have the things for doing oil changes that way when it is time I get it done.

 

Bought my 4Runner new off the lot with 2 miles on the clock - I'm now at 382,000 miles. I have done consistent 3,000-mile oil changes using a Toyota filter and Castrol 5w/30 GTX. No engine issues ever.




Andreas

 

That is impressive aowRS.

As long as you use a good quality oil and filter and change the oil at regular intervals, you should be good. Ive been using Castrol 10w-30 synthetic blend (mix of conventional & Synthetic) w a Wix filter since my rebuild. No issues.

 

I am a Castrol GTX user for more than 30 years, in everything from International Harvesters to VWs, to Moto Guzzis,Toyotas, and Fords. I am running Rotella in my 22re that has 290,000 on its clock. because the diesel oil takes carbon into suspension well, and that old workhorse was pretty dirty. After 10,000 miles of Rotella, the oil stays cleaner longer than when I started.

 

1988 SR5 pickup, 22RE, RWD, 435,900 miles. Oil changed yesterday and previously circa July 2020.
Oil was very filthy after 1500 miles, which has been a problem for many miles. Oil loss is about a cup every 300 miles, when I refill the gasoline. As I was loosening the drain plug, it occurred to me that the dirty oil does not drain completely, as the drain is about half an inch above the bottom of the oil pan.
Is there some easy way to drain the oil totally, completely so that I am not adding fresh oil to the remaining sludge??
Thanks.

 

You or previous owners had been "adding fresh oil to the remaining sludge" for 435,900 miles. It won't bother the engine now. If you really want, drop the oil pan, remove the sludge and it would be good for another half-million miles.

 

Older engines, both in terms of high mileage and in terms of the year they were built (old technology), don't burn as clean. Most of what you're seeing isn't leftover sludge contaminating your fresh oil, it's just the oil doing what oil does and collecting crap created by a running engine.