So I've never dropped a transmission before and I just discovered that the freeze plug(s) are leaking out the back end down the bellhousing. I got some mixed quotes on replacing them (300-600$) and decided for a part that costs 4 bucks I will just put a weekend aside, rent a transmission jack and do it myself.

I know it shouldn't be too stubborn to remove because I just paid to have my clutch replaced (old one was original, lasted 20 years). I have a few questions after looking at the FSM and I'm hoping I can get answers from some seasoned folks that have done this before.

1) Why does the FSM call for the fan shroud to be removed? Is it really necessary?

2) The FSM calls for a heater hose clamp to be removed, why is this?

3) My rig is stock height, will standard jackstands be high enough to get the transmission down in order to replace the freeze plugs?

4) should I go ahead and look into a rear main seal while i'm down there, or should I just leave it alone if it isn't leaking?

is there any sound advice for a newb that anyone can give me to make this as smooth as possible? I've got the FSM and Haynes both seem to have some conflicting info as what to do. One says support the engine with a jack, one says support the front differential and not the engine..

I don't wanna go into this and get stuck halfway through.. It seems like it shouldn't be too bad but I just want to be safe.

 

If this is your first time get help!!

If your going in there I would replace the clutch./Flywheel Rear main depends on mileage and if you plan to keep this another 1/2 million miles

Transmission mount there again if it is still original and your keeping the truck.

There are quite a few threads on this.

2 floor jacks makes it easy I have never had luck with a 4x4 with a regular transmission jack . Because of the transfer case I keep saying I am going to build one but forget to the next clutch.

Under the oil pan with a block of wood you need to raise and lower the engine . When doing this you could put the fan against the shroud same with removing the hose clamp

On some I have gone as far as removing the motor mount bolts

Long extensions to get the top bell housing bolts...

I use the 6 Ton taller jack stands

I have done this myself not something I would wish on someone who has never done it.

They have a tendency to torque to the side of the front drive shaft

Some remove the sway bar some don`t I always did.

It can be a pain to get the front drive shaft bolts we all have different ways Since You don`t do this often it is kinda remember as you go.

 

Yeah it sucks because I had the clutch replaced two months or so ago and already spent 600 on that job.

So basically the worst part is the physical moving of the transmission, everything else should be gravy in comparison?

 

Pretty much if it was all just apart

 

Going over the fsm for the clutch installation after the freeze plugs are done.. I don't have a clutch alignment tool, any suggestions for something else for centering that?

I guess I'll be doing the rear main also, couple good videos on that as long as the trans doesn't land on me..

 

you should be able to get a cheap plastic clutch alignment tool pretty easily, that'll be the least of your issues.

are you absolutely sure that it's a freeze plug?? because my old 22re had a slow water leak from a crack in the block, right under the back of the head... it was a nightmare to find, because of the intake manifold and all of the junk back there.

i blew all the oil and junk off at the car wash, then was barely able to reach in an touch the crack, with some epoxy, which slowed the leak down enough to keep on driving the vehicle.

if you get the trans out, and find out that it's a cracked block instead of a freeze plug, you'll have to come up with a new plan... the cooling system is under pressure, so when the block is cracked, it can be difficult to seal up... perhaps there is some flexible compound that will work better than hard epoxy.

wrt to pulling the trans... i got a harbor freight tranny jack, and set the angle on the tray up to exactly match the angle that the transmission was in... i then used some straps to cinch the trans down to the tranny jack tray that it was resting on.

if you leave the angle of the tray alone, the trans will stab back in there perfectly... don't use the chains that come with the tranny jack, they are too loose.

i supported the rear of the engine from on top, with a harbor freight engine bar... my rig was on 35" tires, with a 1.5" body lift, and a big spring lift... it also has twin cases behind the trans, so the entire job was a nightmare.

 

Yeah I took it down to a mechanic that did the head gasket job for me, he fished around back there more than I did and came up with the same answer, freeze plug leaking. I had taken the hood off and got in with a mirror and everything, couldn't find a thing.

As far as removing the clutch goes, will I need a bearing puller or anything special to remove it like for the pilot bearing, since I just had a clutch kit installed by my mechanic everything is new.. I've got 0 experience with clutches..I'm trying to gather all of the info I can because the less down time the better and I'd like to do this over a weekend.

 

Good advice here; have help. If need be park someone on a lounge chair nearby. you can bench press the transmission, I've done it so often I don't bother with a jack. Drop the xfer case first, then the trans. Not hard its just getting in the habit of checking everything "while you are in there".

 

Thanks for all the advice. Going to rope the 22 yr old kid down the street to hang around while I do this. Probably will rent a trans jack next weekend and make this attempt. I'll post progress, updates as I can.. ty again

 

Anyone know exactly what size / part # the freeze plugs are for the v6 3.0 95 4wd?

 

So the day is coming soon for the freeze plug job. I've slowly been ordering the parts and today I ordered the freeze plugs and a rear main seal kit (gasket and seal). It appears there is an oil leak coming from the bellhouse cover where the coolant is coming from so I am going to try to kill two birds with one stone while I have the transmission down.

All I am waiting for now is the transmission jack to arrive.

It took some hunting to find out what size freeze plugs/expansion plugs are for the 3.0 beast... 35MM or 1.377 inch.

I've installed a pinion seal on the rear differential before, however I've never actually installed a paper type gasket which appears to come in this kit for the housing of the rear main seal, from Felpro, and I've never used gasket sealer/maker.

Q: Should I use the paper type gasket with thin layers of gasket maker on both sides, or should I just purchase gasket maker and pass on the paper gasket that comes in the kit for the seal housing or use the paper gasket all by itself?

Q: I also had my clutch replaced a while back (Shame on the mechanic for not telling me about the freeze plug and rear main leaking) .. They had to turn the flywheel because the clutch wear screwed it up pretty good. Should I grab a new flywheel and put it in while I have things apart? Just thinking of things to do while I have the transmission out so I dont have to do it again any time soon..

 

Got it all set. Removed Transmission, replaced rear main seal, both freeze plugs, was a big mess behind there from the previously repaired HG leak that was happening right over the freeze plug area, lots of rusty buildup .. pics

before



after




Thanks for the help/advice on things..

One thing I can say I learned about putting the trans back into the truck is that it helps to use long wooden dowels through the large mounting bolt holes behind the engine so you can guide the transmission up into place. The extra 30 bucks on the tilting 800lb transmission jack at harbor freight was a score.. the tilt made it tons easier than man-handling it into place..