Aloha from Hawaii, I've been working on my manual 94 pickup 3.0 4x4 (3VZE) since my fan bracket threw a bearing, froze up, and busted a belt. Prior to that however, I noticed a lack of power and when accelerating in 3rd or 4th gear, my RPMs would increase, but my speed would not. I have since changed a whole lot, including my water pump (small leak) and timing belt, fan bracket obviously, VAFM (was bad) O2 sensor (also was bad), TPS, and valve cover gaskets. Since I had the plenum off for my valve cover gaskets I checked the resistance of my fuel injectors and they are all within spec. Upon reconnecting the injector connectors, I realized all the clips from all 6 connectors had broken off (from the previous owner) so I did the zip-tie fix for each connector. As I was doing that, I noticed all of the injectors can rotate freely (as the FSM says they should when reinstalling after removing the injectors to service/clean) except one is stuck and doesn't rotate at all (#2). I didn't do the stethoscope/screwdriver test before going in and I have not removed my fuel rails and injectors yet, so I just wanted to know before I button her back up, whether the stuck fuel injector is a sign that I should go deeper and remove/replace my fuel injector(s)? Mahalo (thank you) for any advice and help.

 

Does the stuck injector line up with the fuel rail? The rotation, I believe, is so you can move the injector a bit to get the fuel rail in place. The lack of rotation has no functional impact on the injector other than the injector O-rings/gaskets may leak if you try forcing it to move.

 

Yes the stuck injector is lined up with the fuel rail. Thank you for explaining the function of the rotation. I thought maybe the stuck injector meant something more serious. I pulled the fuel rail and injectors out, the injectors look pretty gunked, I'm planning to attempt to test their injection, any suggestions for the equipment and the set-up? I want to just replace them because I don't know how old they are, but I know I should test them first. Mahalo!

 

Do you have a company there that can test, clean, and replace the gaskets on them? We have places here on the mainland who will do them for $20-25 per injector.

 

I forgot to ask, is it possible and what is the best way to clean the injectors myself? There is no local fuel injector cleaning service and it would be cheaper for me to just buy a remanufactured set of fuel injectors off EBay for $100 for 6 Denso single-hole injectors which is what I got now.

 

Some have soaked them in carb cleaner.

 

I took a syringe, a rubber hose and a 9 volt battery and with a 1 second touch to the battery, it would flush the Gumout thru the injector. I had a spare/junk harness and used a connector off of it, but alligator clips would work as well. I got my new injector connectors from connectorsfast.com I have a set of Flamethrowers injectors and like his real well if you are going to replace them.

 

Thank you Terrys87 for the tip on cleaning the injectors yourself, but I still don't quite understand the cleaning process, can you please elaborate? Did you use the syringe and hose to safely get the Gumout cleaner into the top of the injector and then connected the injector to the battery to make it inject/spray? I'm assuming the cleaner should not get into the connector of the injector. Do I need to use a 9 volt battery or can I just use my car battery? Also, any suggestions for testing the injection of the injectors as the FSM prescribes without purchasing the SSTs? Mahalo for your help, it is greatly appreciated!

 

If you want to check the flow rate of the injector, you'll need to hook it up to something that will push some sort of solvent (Stoddard's solvent has the same density as gasoline, but is much less flammable) through the injector at the correct pressure. Lots of parts.

The SST cuts lots of corners by using a) gasoline b) the truck's fuel pump, and c) the truck's FPR. The SST just allows you to hook up one injector to the fuel rail (through the CSI line).

I've never seen a good way to make the SST. You could probably connect a suitable-sized rubber hose to the end of the injector and hold it with a tight worm-clamp, but the other end would have to hook to the banjo end of the flex line. Maybe you could get a junked flexline that ended in a banjo, and then stack the two banjos together to connect them. Considering that we're working with gasoline, I'm sure not brave enough to try that. Particularly considering that someone has already built the actually correct rig, and will do it for you for only $22 each.

 

I'd say pay for the cleaning. I know people here have used witchhunter.com . They send you the clean and tested injectors with all the new o-rings and seals you need. You will wait about a week and a half. It's worth it.