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truck goes click click

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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #1  
87blyota's Avatar
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From: NW missouri
truck goes click click

My truck has started not starting after long trips until it sets for a while. I found a write up on cutting the black wire to the relay and running it straight to the battery I am going to give this a try I am just wondering what gage wire would be best? 12 gage?
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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From: raleigh,nc
I believe the write up mentions 12 gauge for that application
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 07:54 AM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160948
Here's the write up I'm looking at
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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From: NW missouri
also is the cut made before or after the connectors
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Old May 8, 2014 | 10:52 PM
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Sounds like you will need to replace the starter contacts. The hot sides wears out much quicker, eventually the difference doesn't allow for full contact on one side.
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Old May 8, 2014 | 11:20 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Just curious where in the starter are the contacts??

I know about the ones in the solenoid I never changed the ones in the starter maybe I need to.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:05 AM
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From: Anderson Missouri
Here is what I have done and it does help on the starter. Still every now and then I still get a click. I am going to do Rad4runners upgrade here in the near future. Doing the Relay and Starter contacts does help alot.

Copied...
Alternator Rebuild Link>> http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/fo...-22RE-4AGE-etc

Starter Brushes PN#DRK Rebuild Kit http://nationstarteralternator.com/


Another link>> http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/

Starter Rebuild Video.


Cleaning the Starter Relay.
I followed RAD4Runners write up on the starter relay as I have had it to not hit on a first turn of the ignition. I cleaned the contacts like he said, only I used 600 grit sandpaper. It does hit the on the first try and is a more solid, quicker response. Thanks RAD4Runner.

Getting cover off, I used wire cutters to bend the tabs up on the cover. The rubber seal really makes it tough to get off. Luckily the wires are soldered on real well, I used a screw driver to work around the edges of the seal to help free the cover. Then I used some 1000 grit sand paper to clean the contacts.
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Last edited by Terrys87; May 9, 2014 at 02:08 AM.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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From: raleigh,nc
great info.....thanks
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:47 PM
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From: Anderson Missouri
No problem.. I am also doing another wiring upgrade that I got some help with. I will up finish it up and post it on my 86Runner build tomorrow if you want to see later on. I will mention it in this post later on as well. With the starter contacts replaced and the relay contacts cleaned mine still hangs up every now and then. This next thing I am doing should have it fixed for good.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 04:35 PM
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Here

Wyoming, LOL!

87blyota
Yes, starter solenoid contacts may also need to be replaced. However, the wiring flaw on 86-88 22R-E's is an absolutely, and unarguably proven BOOO-BOOO of Toyota. Therefore, IF you do not want even a single chance in a million that your truck will go click-click, you gotta fix it. I bet this takes less time than messing with the starter and solenoid.

Make sure you find the correct wire. The one diagonally across from the thin black wire with red stripe.

Also verify (in the case that someone before you had hacked the wiring) that the black wire with thin stripe is exactly the same wire that goes to this connector that plugs in to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid.

Once you have verified you have found the correct wire, cut it a few inches away from the connector so you will have room to work.

Insulate the one in the harness well. You should never need it.

Now double-check (always double check-even even if it's rad4runner telling you how to do it - LOL!) Try starting. This time, ONLY your starter relay should click, AND your starter solenoid will absolutely NOT thunk. That is very similar to the symptoms of your problem (there is no or not enough power to energize your starter solenoid because of all the voltage drops along the way)

Now you are absolutely, positively sure you have found and cut the correct wire.

Finally, connect that black wire from the connector to 12AWG wire, to optional kill-switch, then to fuse which is connected as close as possible to positive terminal of the battery.

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(When Terry's done with his, he should have a better view of the wires and the connector.)

IF after doing this fix, you hear and feel your starter solenoid energetically thunk, but starter still does not spin, then proceed on checking your solenoid contacts AND checking that your solenoid plunger is not binding.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; May 9, 2014 at 04:40 PM.
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Old May 10, 2014 | 04:29 PM
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From: NW missouri
I did what was in the link in my 2nd post and it fixed my issue
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