So I'm think I'm ready to rebuild my motor. This will be my first full motor rebuild. I was wondering what i should have the machine shop do to my block and head as well as any specific parts i should buy like high flow oil pump, ARP studs etc. Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

Have them check it out...lol.

No need for arp this or that. It's a little 4 cyl. Get parts from engnbldr.com
Many many happy customers...dont know of any unsatisfied.

You really want a little more power...this worked for me really well.

engnbldr offroad head. comes with oversized stainless valves.
engnbldr 268 cam. (may want to check if it meshes with turbos needs)
lc engineering header.

Make sure to use a Toyota headgasket. No matter what anyone says.

These motors are more mileage/reliability orientated. Once you get to
130 plus hp....it cost a fortune for each and every hp after that.

Call up engnbldr....Ted is who you will more than likely talk too. Tell him what you are doing. Gives great advice and you dont feel as though you are being "sold".

Good luck. Take pictures. Post.

 

I use ARP studs. Aren't that expensive and I like being able to leave the rear 2 out and use the rest to guide the head down onto the block. After its down screw in the rear 2 studs.

Ditto on the Toyota HG. Worth every penny!

High volume oil pump... I'd rather have a accumulator/preluber to provide pressure before starting.

 

To get you started, SOME of the things the machinist can do for you are:

If you drop the block off they can clean it, check for cracks, change the freeze plugs, ensure the block isn't warped, resurface the top, ensure the cylinders aren't out of round, hone-bore-or re-sleeve the cylinders, put the main bearing caps on and ensure they are not out of round and do a light hone for the new bearings to sit in, and paint it.

If you give them your crank with the block they can clean it, polish or grind down the main and/or rod journals, check for straightness, and even remove and install the pilot bearing if you ask them to.

If you give them the rods with the block they can clean them, check for straightness, and put the rod caps onto each rod and ensure they are not out of round and do a light hone for the new bearings to sit in.

If you give them the head they can clean it, check for cracks, check for warping, resurface the bottom, check-clean-polish- or replace the valves, put new valve stem seals in, drill out any stuck broken exhaust studs, helicoil any bolt holes that need them, and paint it.

If you give them the cam with the head they can clean it, check for straightness, ensure the lobes are within spec, and polish the lobes.

They can do a lot and you either need to know what you want the machinist to do for you (usually based on why your having to do a rebuild), or trust the machinist to tell you what you need to have done based on his inspection/recommendation. They can also shave the deck of the block if it's really bad but I have never had that done and know nothing about that.

Good luck!

 

^^X2 Grego pretty much covered everything I would have said except for the fact that if you need to have your block deck, you want to make sure that they have the timing cover so it is decked at the same time. If not, your timing cover will be talledr than the block and cause your head gasket not to seal properly.

Before you order the rebuild kit, go to your machine shop and get them to measure your bore to see what size pistons you will need. When you drop off the block, take the pistons too - they will be able to bored and hone the cylinders out perfectly to the pistions. Also check to see what size bearings you need before you order - machine shop can help you with this too.

Engnbldr is the way to go for rebuild kits. Ted is pretty much the cheapest source with reliable parts. His kit comes with a full gasket kit for the rebuild - if you need a gasket that isn't in that kit then you are building a Chevy or something! The head gasket in that kit is also good too. It's not Toyota, but it is still really good quality. I've been very satisfied with all of Engnbldr's products on the two 22R rebuilds that I have done.

I have my 22R rebuild fully documented if you want some more tips - see my thread in my signature.

 

Be sure to give them your oil pan to check out and mount on the block for you.

 

Why? It's a stamped oil pan, not machined. Not to mention, if they mount it on the block, he'd still have to remove it to install the crank, rods and pistons.

 

great thanks guys. i have this machine shop that I'm looking at that does motor rebuilds. they said they could rebuild my motor with a year warranty for 1400 with the parts they get themselves or if i got my own parts from engnblr there would be no warranty or i could just have them machine the block and head and i can do the work myself for around 1100. any input on this?

 

Hmmm,

subscribed

 

$1400 is steep and while they might provide you with a 1 year warranty, there is no guarantee that they will use quality parts that will last beyond a rear. Cheap parts will fail without a doubt and you'll spend even more later on down the road. These 22R motors have many sources for parts with very few being quality and reliable. I would got with an Engnbldr rebuild kit and do it yourself. The only specialty tools you will need is a ring compressor, feeler gauges, plastigauge, valve spring compressor, torque wrench and a seal puller. I may be missing something, but those tools should cost you less than $100. Don't be intimidated, it's really not that difficult. Take lots of pictures, label EVERYTHING and bag it all up.

 

Get ready for hidden surprises. The high volume oil pump is hard find. The timing cover is different too. I used Engnbldr standard cover and Aisin OPT 054 oil pump with no problems. Full gasket sets vary amongst manufacturers. Some don't come with the turbo gaskets so watch for that! The head is expensive and rare. Engnbldr does NOT have a 22RTE head so pray yours is rebuildable. Check over your exhaust manifold really good. Its probably cracked beyond repair and not worth fixing. A replacement manifold is practically nonexistent. Aftermarket headers are available. See my writeup on 22rtetrucks.com (chinese header review). Your CT20 may be cracked the wastegate. Recommend swap to a T3 turbo.

Of course you can swap to a 22RE and be done with it or you can rebuild this rare motor not many people have. I prefer the latter.

 

I payed almost $2200 for a machine shop to rebuild mine four years ago, which came with one year or 15,000 mile warranty. The only problem I had after the rebuild was a blown head gasket which I had repaired under warranty. So I think $1400 is a good deal.