Was wondering if anyone lived around vacaville,ca that could help me put on both front cv axles? My friend bailed and im not sure if i cpuld do it or not. Thank you

 

Im in Napa, I could possibly help.

 

That would be awesome . When are you free ? . I can kick you some money also

 

Experienced help would certainly be good, but sorry, I'm in Colorado. However, when it comes to changing CV axles, there are some good writeups on the forum on how to do it, so spend an evening searching and reading before you start. Some people say it's easy, others have the devil's own time with getting the axles out. Different people suggest different techniques, so it's good to browse a number of threads and kind of get an overall picture.

I did it last spring on my '94, but I dropped the front diff at the same time to install a locker. With the front diff out, changing the CV axles is a piece of cake. Not so much if you leave the diff in place.

 

I can't find a link to do it myself.. I find bits and pieces. Can you guys help me out ?

 

Here's a writeup that has good pictures and useful info. Not the only way to do it, but it'll help you get started thinking about it.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-w-pix-144314/

One thing to note is that you don't really have to remove the wheel to do this job, and it's definitely safer if you don't. There's never any weight on the CV axle or the drive portion of the hub.

You can improve your searching by using the "site" keyword in Google. Just go to Google and type in something like "CV axle replacement :site yotatech\f116". It'll cause Google to search the 2nd gen Yotatech forum first. I find that Google generally does a better job of searching than the forum search function.

 

I can do this with out removing the manual hubs and all? just leaving the tire on?

 

You have to remove the manual hubs, as shown in the photos. The CV axles are held into the wheel with a snap ring which you can only get to by removing the hubs.

But, you don't have to remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire in order to do any of the hub work, since the hubs don't carry any of the weight of the truck. They just float inside the wheel bearings.

Many people do remove the wheels, perhaps to improve access. However, I'm a strong believer in leaving the wheels on whenever I can if I have to get under the truck. Then I know it won't fall on me.

 

If you have alloy wheels, you may have trouble getting to the cone washers to remove them, which you need to do to remove the "flange" http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...15componen.pdf in order to get to the cir-clip (sometimes called a "snap-ring").

But if you can do it, leaving the wheels on is safer. The "trick," if there is one, is make sure the weight of the truck is on the wheels (not the jack stands) when you try to remove the disconnected half-shaft. If the wheels are dangling, the half-shaft is at the wrong angle and it will never come out. Push the wheels up (or lower the truck onto the wheels), and the half-shaft will pop right out.

 

No money needed, perhaps this weekend?

 

I have alloy wheels and was able to change from drive flanges to manual hubs without much trouble without removing the wheels. However, I can see how the alloy wheel could be in the way if the cone washers got real stubborn.

Good tips, scope.

 

Thanks everyone. Your awesome !!!

 

Thank you everyone. I replace both sides!!! YES!!! The passenger side was a little tougher but I got it taken care of. Next I need to fix the idle ... not so good when it starts cold. Thanks again everyone..

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