Hi,

I just got through rebuilding my 22R engine. I know how people like to say, to fill the filter with oil before spinning it on. Well, it's impossible with this engine. The filter is angled DOWNWARD. When you shut the motor off, the oil drains back down into the crankcase!

So when i go to start it after a day or two, it takes a few seconds for the oil light to go off while the filter is re- filled.

Does your truck do this too?

 

im not an authority on this by any means but i once had to promise to ONLY use Toyota OEM oil filters because they apparently have an effective anti-drainback valve. i was told that inferior filters with mortal drainback valves cannot protect the mighty 22R* from dry starts.

at least, that's what i was told...

 

I'm sorry, but... that's just not true. For the first three oil changes (Which occured at less than 150 miles...) I used Japanese made Denso oil filters. I'm using a Fram unit now, and same issue.

The problem is gravity. There's just no way to keep the oil inside. It goes back down into the oil galleries, and oil pump, completely.

 

There is an anti drain back valve in the filters. If you have the oil light on when you cold start. You may have something a little more serious going on. I never had that problem with my 89 with 22re. You could have loose tolerances, Maybe missing an oil galley plug at the front of the motor when you did the rebuild. Could just be a faulty sensor. Best bet to rule it out is hook up a mechanical gauge and verify actual pressure.

 

If there is an anti drainback device in these filters, please show it to me. It would have to be inside of the engine itself.

It could be loose tolerances. I did not have the time or money to plastigauge everything.

All oil galley plugs were installed.

 

Nope, my oil light shuts off right after startup. I use Toyota oil filters with a quality anti-drainback valve (yes, it is in the filter).

Toyota filters use a metal bypass valve (at the back of the filter) and a rubber drainback valve (at the front of the filter).

 

Is there any way you could show me what the Toyota filter looks like? From the screw- on end?

I'm looking at the Denso filter and it says it has an anti- drainback valve. Crap I remember the engine used to do this before I got it, too. the machine shop said I could use standard bearings, and I was "Right at the limit" of having to go oversize on the crank. I tried to get an oil pressure sending unit in there but with the smog valve in there it was impossible.

 

There is a thread here thats all about oil filter quality by brand. Search for it. They compare all sorts of brands. What oil are you running?

 

Well, i am still breaking it in so I am running the Wal- mart 10W30, "Super tech". This is also my 4th oil and filter change in 150 miles. It costs less than $20 to change the oil, I don't want that metallic crap circulating for 500 miles.

Well, I plumbed in a digital oil gauge, and found that at cold, it idles at around 63 PSI, and giving it a little gas it jumps to 90 PSI.

When warmer (But not all the way warm) it drops to 30PSI at idle, and back up to almost eighty when I give it some gas. Well, if the specs are off, it isn't *that* bad.

When it's broke in I'll switch to Royal Purple engine oil.

I also see the anti oil drainback system, now. There's a silicone ring around the outer diameter, and a small valve at the bottom of the center of each oil filter I have. Even the Fram has it.