Got a few questions that have come up recently:

-I changed my transmission fluid today and I found somewhere that it should have taken 3.7 qts to fill it back up. I did not manage to get near that much in it before it started coming out the inspection hole. Does anybody know what the actual fluid requirement is for an '85 W56-a transmission?

-My muffler has rusted off the truck (yes off) what are the cons to running my truck without a muffler for a while until I can pay to have new exhaust ran? It still has the cat, just no muffler.

-When pressing on my brake pedal, my right blinker comes on. Due to searching the forum, I've come to think its either corrosion, a bad ground, or my trailer light plug wiring messing up. Any other possibilities I need to look in to? I just replaced the right brake light a few weeks ago, could that have something to do with it?

I seem to be having a rash of little problems with truck lately, as it is also losing brake fluid somewhere. Doing repairs is slowing down my upgrade plans lol


Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

-Also, I was under the impression that my truck should have two O2 sensors, but I only have the one that is in the manifold. Shouldn't I have one just behind the Cat too?

 

Only 1 O2 sensor.

 

You might be losing brake fluid through the wheel cylinders in rear drums. Thats a common problem on an old truck.

 

Fluid capacity from Amsoil's site: http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/Vehic...OTA+4-RUNNER+L

Engine, with filter..........4.5 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........9 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A340H Initial Fill..........4.8 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed A340H..........10.9 quarts
Manual Transmission, G52 (5-SPD)..........8.2 pints
Manual Transmission, W56 (5-SPD)..........6.3 pints
Differential, Front..........4.9 pints
Differential, Rear..........4.6 pints
Transfer Case, W/ MT..........3.4 pints

So, the w56 should take just a little over 3qts from a dry fill. How much did yours take, and are you sure it emptied completely?



No muffler = extra noise but no problems... Nothing to see here, just rasping like a boss!



I'd check start with the trailer harness first as far as the brake/blinker issue goes. Once that is eliminated it gets more complicated, so make sure it isn't that first. But look on the bright side, at least it's your blinker that comes on instead of your horn...



As far as the brake fluid loss goes, try to get a general location of where it's leaking. Like was said above, the wheel cylinders could be the culprit. If you can't find a leak externally, check under your floormat on the driver's side. Mine used to leak through the firewall there and took a bit to notice.

 

-The transmission seems to be shifting fine, even a little better than before. So I'm guessing that I put enough in. I think I got between 2.5 and 3 qts in, and it wasn't completely drained is my guess.

-The truck isn't all that much louder with the muffler completely off. So, for the time being, I will be running it as is. May fix it later with a turbo style muffler

-Fixed the turn signal issue, it was a shorted box for trailer lights. Removed the trailer plug and everything if functioning properly now

- The brake fluid loss is next on my list, I think I'm going to take it to a shop and have them fix the issue once I figure out where its leaking. I don't mess with the brakes on vehicles... just my rule.

Thanks for all the advice!

 

Instead of starting a new thread, I'm just gonna ask this question here:

I have recently purchased a set of stock ifs toyota rims, I plan on putting 32x11.5R15's on them and using these on my '85 during hunting season. I know I will need a wheel spacer for the ifs rims (of atleast 3/4") My question is: Will I need a bigger spacer due to the wider tire? I was planning on getting 1" spacers, but I want to make sure it will work before buying them.

 

Anybody?

 

Alright, I'm gonna bite the bullet and go with 1" spacers I guess. I'll let ya'll know how it works out.

 

I think a 1" would work, but I would never recommend using a spacer. Why not just get a set of the right rims? People give away stock rims all the time whether actually free or very cheap. You could probably get a used set cheaper than the spacers, and if your buying cheap spacers you'll end up getting what you paid for...


Did you ever find the brake fluid leak?

 

These are stock rims, just not stock for my solid axle truck. I got them cheap enough that spacers will be worth it I'm guessing.

I haven't had much time to work on the truck in the last couple days, so I haven't been able to find the leak. Should have some time this afternoon.

 

I meant stock rims for your truck as opposed to the IFS rims. Cheap spacers are very unreliable and can throw off the wheel balance or break. It's always best to just get the right rims and not use them, especially if you're doing a lot of highway or offroad driving. I think the spacers that were on my truck from the previous owner were 2", but the tires were 33/12.50/15's.

 

I only paid $50 for the rims. If I can find some cheaper stock rims, I might resell them. But it was a good deal, and add a $90-100 spacer on that and it still isn't a bad deal. If those are cheap ones, I don't want to see the cost of expensive ones.

 

I have WabFab(TG) spacers on mine in 1.5" flavor. Over 60K miles in a year and a half. Never even the slightest problem. Installed them, torqued them and haven't budged since.

 

John we need to look at the wheel cylinders they are easy enough to do and you can inspect it by looking at the back of the drum dust cover inside the rear wheels typically you will be able to see fluid on the cover.