Is it possible to do or is the mounting holes different ?
My windows and door locks don't work And I really don't have the money to pay someone to fix them, but I see the manual regulators are cheap, but I'm not sure if you can change them out to manual, was hopping to get some help here
its a 1986 Toyota Extended cab,
I look over the forums but must be wording it wrong to find anything
on the matter

 

It's just regulators and a handle.

:wabbit2:

 

Lightly: Have you checked fuses or for a wires disconnected?.
I've never heard of going from power windows to manual, but you never know.
You might as well go buy 2 used doors with manual windows.
IMHO it seems like a complete hassle and just going backwards to switch over, but that's just my .02 worth.

 

well I have checked all of my fuses in my dash and under the hood and none seem to be blown, its like 80$ for a new master switch for my door and its not just the windows, my door locks dont work, is it hard to re wire the windows? is their a fuse some were I don't know about for the windows ?

 

Sorry I don't have the electrical schematics. I'm not sure if there is a fusable link in the circuit.

TEST the fuses, visual inspection isn't reliable.

I would test the switch for conductivity, and the wires for power. Pull the actuators test for conductivity, then clean and lube them, and finally test them without the window load.

It could be as simple as pushing the connector back onto the switch assembly also.

Now about the change over to manual. Meh even if the mounting is different there will be provisions, eg nothing a drill and some lock-washers wouldn't fix. You'll likely need to switch to the shorter length arm rests, not sure about the geometry they might interfer.

I'd suggest you go down to the local parts yard and have a look at an electric and manual door. Ruler and camera in hand.

A complete re-wire, IMO, would absolutely suck to not get payed for. You have to pull the whole dash down to the crossbar support, all the door panels, kick plates, door plates, some of the carpet, and pillar plates. Measure all the runs from the drivers door, or console, (Just remebered its a truck not 4runner, so it's a little easier).. Loom up all the interconnects from one side to the other, de-loom the old stuff and re-loom with the new, or just add the new.

So uhm yeah, test the fuse and for power at the fuse panel, and power at the switch and conductivity thru it. And get a switch from the junk yard if you need it.

All that said, manual windows are far superior to power windows except when you're cruising down a bumpy dirt road tring to roll them up and not spill your coffee. If you do the swap post lots of well lit pictures!.

P.S. There is also a Door/Window relay indicated in the 94 FSM, I didn't dig up and check the earlier years manual, with testing proceedures.

 

Thanks Ill dig into this asap

 

My 87 4Runner SR5 had power windows, locks, and mirrors when I bought it. The windows had some aftermarket switches by the radio because the factory ones melted. I wanted the factory ones to work so I spent a lot of time repairing them, then had them trigger relays to handle the large current of the window motors. Well I might have bought cheap relays but it made me mad that they kept failing. I finally got fed up, bought some manual regulators from a member here, and went to the junkyard and grabbed some manual window door panels. Took out all the wiring and now everything works every time. I wired power locks up, and installed manual mirrors. I really like this setup better.

 

What did you have to do to get your wired door locks to work? mine are also not working

 

I made sure the control box worked fine, then wired an aftermarket switch in place of the original. I ran my own harness from the body to the door to power the lock solenoid. I had the rocker switch laying around, so your application will be different. Refer to the FSM for the wiring diagrams so you can build your own system to work with the one in the truck.