I am not getting any kind out of this thing. horn, lights nothing..
-good hot battery
-fuses checked
-grounding checked.

any ideas would be appreciated!

-Gillis

 

Did you check the main fuses/fuse links under the hood near the battery? I believe the main one is an 80amp.

Or did you verify that you have good connections at the battery terminals?

 

From original intro thread you mentioned it has been sitting outside for 10 years, with that said has critters got to anything?? Have you gone under over and inbetween to look for wires possibly chewed? Just a thought but worth a look see

 

Here are some photos gentlemen.
I looked and found one wire that was connected to the inner fender, next to the fuse box that was just there. Could this be my problem? Also, I double checked the fuses today. My question right now is there anyway to check the larger fuses? like the head fuse and the EFI fuse?

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ed2bc7c.jpg
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...ps583cb1a6.jpg
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...psc5bb5cfd.jpg
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ed5b706.jpg
-Gillis

 

Get the cat to check the fuses...

Just kidding. If you have a voltmeter or even a test light, you can check on either side of the fuse. The big plastic square fuse may need accessed via the bottom side of the fuse block.

 

rokblok! I thinks its the main 80 amp fuse. Im going to replace it tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

-Gillis

 

Let us know the outcome. Glad you're able to move the cat long enough to test fuses....

 

I replaced the 80 fusible link...now when I put a hot battery to the terminals... the positive post sparks and cracks like its going to blow the fuse again.....I feel like a dipward... any suggestions...

-Gillis

 

If its minor sparks, it may just be accessories getting powered up. If its major sparks, you may have something shorted out. There are any number of possibilities. Battery cell shorted, alternator windings shorted, insulation rubbed off on a wire somewhere, etc.... Keep searching if its serious sparks...

 

you should always install the negative terminal on the battery last.

if the negative terminal is hooked up and you install the positive one any loads in the system will start drawing current as soon as you start to touch the battery post. The more current draw the bigger the sparks.

 

Trace the wire going from the battery to the starter, and fuse box to alternator.

 

Thanks guys for all the help and following my thread.
My next question is does anyone know where I could get a decent vacuum line diagram for the 92' helix 2wd 22re efi..?

-Gillis

 

Hilux..not helix

 

opps..

 

+1
If major, could exactly be the same thing that blew the 80-amp fuse and could do it again unless fixed.

Thick wire to fender next to Fuse block is the main body ground on first gen . connected to batt neg. probably come on yours.

Someone on forum must know typical resistance presented to battery with engine off. This is a safe way and a good place to start. Disconnect battery cables, measure resistance between pos & neg terminals of cables. IF significantly lower (meaning short) that resistance above, disconnect major components (alternator, starter solenoid, large cable to starter motor, audio power distribution cables) one at a time until you find that abnormally-low resistance disappear. Safer than experimenting and blowing fuses each time you try something that does not fix problem.

Good luck,
RAD

 

Sorry about the delay guys. Work and college are kicking my butt..
I figured out the issue with the sparks and sloved it.. it was a naked wire for the starter... im a dipward. yes I know.
My next problem is that I have no key for the blasted thing!
any suggestions on how I should handle this small problem?

In other news Ive been giving the engine bay some TLC. Hope you guys havnt forgot about me! cheers!



Gillis

 

Go to walmart and get one. It is $2.

 

They can't cut a key with out something to copy it from..

You can get the key code from the door lock cylinder and try hand filing it. Or go to the dealer and if you provide enough proof of ownership they can cut one from the key code that's linked to your Vin. Or pay the local mobile locksmith about 50 to come cut one on-site. Some are better at this than others, find out which tow company the local OD uses and then use the locksmith they have on site during auction day (watched a guy cut 12 keys in under an hour one day and he only had to start over on one vehicle)..

 

Or, you can go the dealership, I believe, and order a set to rekey the entire vehicle. Key and lock cylinders to match for the doors, ignition, tailgate, etc.

They're all actually pretty easy to replace.
Good luck, and don't lock anything!
Pat☺

 

Any idea on the cost of this?