I just finished installing a 92 (I think) 3.0 in place of a 93 in a truck that I bought. I compared all of the vacuum lines and such to another truck when I was finished. To start, I found out that these years have different pigtails for the knock sensor. I tore the 93 engine down to the valley and removed the knock senor. I also tore the replacement motor down to that point too. Swapped out the knock sensors and distributors and put the good motor back together and installed it. Now I have an engine that will crank but will not run. if you leave it sit over night it will act like it is going to fire up when you first hit the key but then nothing. Just cranks. It had a little bit of bad fuel in the tank but was almost empty. I should have pumped it dry when the fuel lines were off but I didn't. I cranked it first. Then, I put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in it and cracked the fuel line on the 7th injector and let it run until we had fresh gas. I also cracked the rear fuel line on the rear of the driver's side injector and ran it there until I was sure the fuel was fresh. At this point I have pulled the distributor once and re-stabbed it because I was a tooth off. I've checked it three more times with number one at top dead center of compression stroke. The rotor is pointing at #1. I have consistent fire when I pull the plug and lay it on the plenum. The only thing I haven't checked is fuel pressure and I may have allowed the timing belt to jump a tooth when the intake was removed and re-installed. What do you guys think my problem is? Thanks.

 

I don't think I let the timing belt move.

 

Have you checked the ignition timing? At TDC, the rotor doesn't point at #1, it points about 10 degrees past. But you can't really tell anything just by looking at the rotor, you need a simple timing light.

You can pull a plug (quickly) and see if it's wet. A dry plug suggests no fuel flow.

By the way, how did you let the fuel "run" without starting it? The Fuel pump is not supposed to run unless you are cranking, or if the engine is pulling enough intake air to move the VAF vane.

 

Haven't used my light on it yet. I jumped the ports in the diagnostic port B+ to FP I think. That ran the pump without cranking. Plugs look a little moist but not wet like you'd expect. Don't you have to jump some diag ports to time it?

 

To time it you need to jump e1 and te1. Check engine should have a consistent flash. However timing it without the engine running might not exactly work

What was your procedure on installing the distributor. It's a little tricky on the engines. You need to follow the manual exactly or you'll be off

 

Yeah I've never tried to even get one to time without the engine running.

 

Did you connect all grounds? Most Toyotas have a ground at the intake manifold that runs with the writing loom.. But I honestly can't remember if the 3vz had one

 

You may not be getting injector pulse, you have verified flow to the injetors but they may not be getting told to open

 

I believe that all of the grounds are connected but I will check. I will also check the injector connectors for pulse. A simple meter should tell me if I'm getting a 12 volt pulse to them, right?

 

I also shot it with ether. Nothing. I think timing belt may be way off from pulling intake.

 

Probably not. The pulse is only about 20ms, which is too short for any digital meter to indicate. You can get a 'noid light,' which is just an led and resistor. Then you can see it flashing when the injector gets a pulse.

If you can get it running at all, a "stethoscope" (or a chop-stick taped to a paper-towel tube) will let you hear the "click" when it fires. Might be hard to hear when you're just cranking.

You can time the ignition while you're cranking; it's just more difficult. But all you want to do is confirm that it's in the right neighborhood. It will still start even with the timing way off as long as it isn't TOO far, it will just run poorly.

 

Well if it's got spark and it's not running on a shot of ether then I would be thinking the timing is way off but you said that the rotor points to no1 when at tdc so it should run like that maybe not well but still run, The only other thing that you haven't mentioned is compression, do you have any?

 

Haven't put a compression gauge to it but I ran on a shot of fuel in the plenum in other wrecked truck that it was in. Ive turned the crank by hand to get it to tdc and it felt like i had compression on every compression stroke that i hit. I guess I'll check the injectors for firing then I'll pull the front cover off and check the timing belt for alignment. I'll check comp. too.

 

Timing belt. The belt was way off. Reset it and now it runs like a new one. Thanks for the help.