I didn't have time to replace my torn CV boots, so I took my truck to my mechanic. While doing the work, he discovered that the idler arm is sloppy and needs to be replaced. What manufacturer do you recommend for idler arms? I haven't gone under to see, but I assume that there is a ball joint on the idler arm, and that is what has gone bad (284,500 miles). I assume that the arm would come with new bushings and oil seal. Let me know if that isn't the case, and I need to order those, also. I'd appreciate any suggestions regarding this repair job. Thank you.

1994 4WD extra-cab pickup

 

I took my rig to Sears about a month or so ago for an alignment and oil change. Said she needed a new pitman and idler arm. You should get everything you need with the new idler. But please someone correct me if I'm wrong. Definitely gonna keep up with this thread cuz I'll be doing the same job in a few weeks [hopefully]

 

I'd recommend part # FA5040 as a replacement. Available at Autozone and other standard parts places. This is the aftermarket arm with the biggest shaft diameter. You can also get upgrades for this particular arm such as brass bushings (google SDORI).

 

If it can be rebuilt, you need two seals and a grease seal. All in all, less than $30 and about an hour to do, once you get the hang of it. Now, this is only if the idler itself moves back and forth.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

Otherwise, I'm a big fan of the Beck Arnley stuff. I have used their ball joints, tie rod ends, brake calipers and rotors, all with zero fitment issues and no problems.

 

The autozone arm is 30 to 50 depending on the location and comes with a lifetime warranty.
(I think its the FA5040)

 

The idler and pitman are both less than $40 each from any local parts store....

 

I just did all this fun stuff. FA4050 idler arm from autozone for $36 bucks (cheapest and you can add SDORI brass bushings to it for longevity), moog pitman arm (~$60), and moog lower bj's which I think were around $65 each.

Replacing the idler arm, 15-20 minute job, pitman arm maybe 30 minutes for me as I had some issues.

Get a pitman arm puller. I used a tip wabfab put up a while back. I put the pitman arm puller on the pitman arm tightened it down to snug. Then I put a c-clamp around the jaws of the puller to keep them from spreading as I tightened it down. Tighten a few turns, whack the bolt on the puller with a BFH, tighten a few turns, whack bolt. Repeat until it falls off.

My truck doesn't have much at all in the way of rust so your mileage may vary. I also sprayed down everything I planned on taking apart with PB blaster daily for about a week or so. Not sure if it helped or not

Get a torque wrench and do it correctly, I didn't want to spend the money on one but I'm glad I did. I think I would have overtorqued everything if I didn't.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered the bushings from SDORI today ($34.80) and picked up the FA4050 from Auto Zone for $35.99 + Tax (total $39.14). SDORI says they will ship the bushings tomorrow, so I'll have them by the beginning of the week. I didn't realize that the idler arm comes completely assembled with the idler arm bracket. I'll disassemble it and reassemble it with the new bushings. The cost for the bushings are a bit steep, but the idler arm is a steal at the price and a lifetime warranty. I appreciate the suggestions.

 

Great to hear. Thanks for posting