I just found out today that the after-market (installed for the P.O.) bumper made/installed by 4 Wheel Drive Specialties in Concord, CA SUCK big-time! It leaves no clearance for the jack handle extension (rod with hook on one end, square cross-section on other end) so it prevents access to the spare tire lift mechanism!!


When jack handle extension is inserted where it's meant to be, it only angles up enough to hit the edge of the spare tire.




It needs to angle up around 30° farther. Yes I tried with tailgate up, down and in between.


My options:

• Make a special tool that engages lowering mechanism and just stick out of opening, and use ratchet to drive it
  
  
• Cut a step into bumper like below. This may be too expensive. Putting money into a bumper I do not like, in the first place.
  
  
  
• Have bumper removed and replaced with after-market. Unfortunately, the the bumper is welded on and I do not have the necessary tools to remove it.

Work-Around:
Detached lift mechanism from frame by unscrewing these screws (12mm combination wrench).


Note sharp corners on upper lift stop. Will file down soon.


For now spare tire will stay tied down in trunk, until I replace bum bumper or find alternate solution.



I Am shopping for an after-market bumper now.

My wishes are:

• Two-inch hitch receiver built-in and flush with rear edge of bumper.
• Built-in swing-out spare tire carrier with license plate mount.
• Cut-outs for auxiliary backup lights
• Recovery points (basic, not a hard-core wheeler)

Would appreciate your recommendations.

 

I like the step idea the most. Or drill a hole through the number and weld a pipe in the hole. The hole would have to be about 1 1/2'' though and thats some tough drilling, especially into the upper portion of a round tube. Im thinking a step would be the best approach.

 

I'd make the step.

:wabbit2:

 

Thanks guys!
Does anyone know of a good bumper/welder shop who can do this job at a reasonable cost in San Diego?
TIA,
RAD

 

On my rear bumper, I cut a small notch in the bottom of the tail gate to fit the spare winch crank in there, works fine:



In fact, I find it works better than stock, since the slot constrains the crank so it is easier to crank up and down without the rod moving all over.

I purposely shoved the bumper up within 1/2" of the bottom of the tailgate for better departure angle. Now I do have a 3" body lift so it is pretty much a straight shot into the spare winch (I have an aux. gas tank that sits between the spare tire bracket and the spare itself).

 

Thanks for the tip, 4Crawler. That actually means the least modification and cutting! I'll check if that would give me the right angle/clearance.
Regards,
RAD

 

Step idea is definatly best.

And don't feel bad, my spare wont even go back up in there because it rusted and I broke it off when my tire went flat trying to get the spare out.

 

Tnx, DCorvin. Should be easy to find replacement at a junk yard. Simple to remove and re-install like shown in my pics above.