Now that the swap is done and everything works good (thanks to all who had input) I noticed that when I put the key in and turn it to the ACC position, the temp gauge jumps up the middle of the gauge immediately even if the truck has been sitting in 20 degree weather for a couple days without running.

It stays there until the truck warms up and then climbs toward the red on the gauge. Freaks me out thinking i'm gonna destroy all the work I put in.

With the old 3.0, it would stay down at the bottom and then when the thermostat opened, it would jump to the middle of the gauge.


Do the 3.0 and 3.4 gauges run off a different amperage or ohmic value or something that I missed. Is there a way to make it work like it originally did. I'm gonna get a temperature gauge tommorow and stick it in the radiator to see if the dash gauge is reading right. If it is, then it's back to trouble shooting.

Thanks

 

?.. i want to help i really do, but i have no idea. but i think the 3.4 sensor does read differant from the 3.0...

 

I just plugged the truck into a laptop OBDII reader with a dash readout. Outside temperature was about 43 and dropping. The high for the day was about 67.

When I turned the key to ACC, the digital readout on the computer showed the temp at 0 degrees, but the needle was halfway up the gauge. On startup, digital readout immediately went to 100 degrees.

Truck has not been run since 11 am yesterday (020312), so I would think that all of the heat from that run would have dissapated and the temp would start out near the outside air temp.

 

see if the 3.0 temp sensor fits in the 3.4 it might help you out.

 

Alright. ill try that. Thanks.

 

I just looked at autozone and it the same part number for both engines. Same temp sensor and the same temp sender for both. Hmmmm defective part or wire is shorting somewhere?

 

I am getting ~6.47 amps from the temp sender wire with the truck running. Is that normal?

 

I am getting ~6.47 voltss from the temp sender wire with the truck running and ~5.2 volts with the key in the ACC position. Is that normal?

 

Bench test it, i dont think it should be more than 5v... Max

 

I have been experiencing different and inconsistent symptoms, but have narrowed it down to either a bad sensor, or a wiring connector problem at the sensor. I have an OBDII gauge that is constantly on, so I monitor my cooling that way until the next time I have to pull the intake to try replacing it.

Here is some more reading on this.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...mation-219201/

 

Yeah I just use the 3.4 sender, never a problem.