So I have the engine torn apart on my 92 4runner, and I'm sending the heads out for machining. The machine shop wants to charge me 2hrs labor to adjust the valve lash. I have the FSM downloaded and see the section about valve clearance, but I just don't get how I adjust the tappets. The FSM is pretty vague. They look like they are zero tolerance. If this was just standard rocker arms I wouldn't even be asking. Help! Thank you.

 

they use shims. find out if the machine shop are gonna reshim it for 2hour labor or are they kinda cut the valves to get it within specs (i dont recommend this way) whatever you do, if you have the machine shop do the adjustment, check them when it comes back to you. if they are wrong send them back

 

So do the silver caps on the tappets actually come off? They are going to reshim them. I have no problem doing it myself, I'm just wondering if it's realistic. Any links to a more concise step by step procedure other than the FSM?

 

the silver pieces are buckets im sure under it is the shim. if you do it yourself, you would have to check all of time, figure out which shim you need and go buy the shim. which can get expensive. anyone can do them but having all the shims you need is what cost the most. sometimes you maybe only need to adjust a few or all. a machine shop should have all the shims they need

 

Ok, thanks for the info. Seems like it's worth having them setting the valve lash.

 

Its not hard. When I did mine, The heads were on the engine, But I had an extra set of heads to mix and match shims for. Otherwise, I would have had to buy shims.





Its a process, but mostly just time consuming. I think 2 hours is a good estimate. Good Luck.

 

You also should get the correct adjustment tool http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH8825.../dp/B0014DF1AG if you want to adjust them yourself. Others have been successful using a few screwdrivers, but my hand is nowhere steady enough.

I agree with ToyoTech559; the hard part of the process is getting all the shims. Generally, you pull them all, measure them all (with a micrometer), and compute which ones are off and by how much. If you're lucky, you can just switch them around and you'll only need to buy one or two. But you'll still need a trip to the dealership for those one or two.

So if the shop includes the shims, 2 hours doesn't sound wrong to me either.

 

that tool allows you to remove the shims without taking the cam shaft off. forgot about that

 

That tool is a piece of crap. It is a lot quicker to pull the cams.



This writeup is for newer engines, but its the same stuff for you 3.0
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...t-tech-226997/

 

Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

 

lol really? all the toyota techs i work with uses its all the time

 

Yeah...really.

You see, we aren't all working as "Toyota techs". Therefore we don't all have access to every SST imaginable at our fingertips. Thus, it's a lot quicker for most of us(those whom haven't already purchased the SSTs required) to just pull the cams. Unless somebody knows of a place that rents them...all the sudden. Until then, I'm not even interested in those particular SSTs. I've done it many times without them just fine. Waste o' money IMO.

 

well the tool isnt crap than. you just dont like the idea that you have to buy a tool to be used only once. i know it sucks not having SST tools for the job. even the dealership i work for doesnt have it all. all the old SST have been stolen by other techs in the past. we only have the newer stuff for newer cars. i dont even have all the SST to set up my elocker but im managing so far lol

 

Its not that the tool itself is worthless. Its that using the tool makes the job a huge pain in the butt and delays the process making it very long and drawn out.

FWIW, I TRIED using the tool. I bought the tool from SPX and couldn't get the shims out with the cam still in place.
If anyone wants it, $60 shipped.

 

hmm thats odd. i have never adjusted the valves on one of these but i have seen other techs used that tool. they just twist it on and out comes the shim. the toyota sst tool looks just like the one in the link as well. guess ill know more when i do mine

 

For what it's worth, valve clearance should be checked every 30,000 miles. Or a little more frequently (I hope) than I remove the cams.

So I expect to use my tool several more times.

Then I'll get another Toyota.

 

That's funny. I'll be happy to supply the same tool, $50 shipped. I'll buy them off ebay for $15 like I did my own and forwarding them along to you new in the package. Just PM me if you want to put $30 into my pocket.

I find the bucket holding tool tricky to use because for the shim to clear the cam cap the tool needs to be inserted at a shallow angle, but that angle also makes the tool easily slip off the edge of the bucket. The worst is the bucket next to the part of the camshaft with the hexagonal cross section.

If you can figure out how to make it work, it's still a bit difficult in places with obstructions (I seem to remember the PAIR valve interfering). On the other hand, the pain of pulling the cams and having to clean off old FIPG and apply new (and first either go out and buy a new tube or else clean up the crusty old one) is pretty high for me too, so overall it's a wash, in my opinion.

 

I was doing my 3rz and I bought the "toyota tool" from SJ? tools. The spacer thing wasn't tall enough. Traced it out on an old saw blade and made a taller one and got the job done with that. I read this thread beforehand and thought the guy was a bit harsh calling the tool worthless like there was more to the story but I ended up not using the pliers thing at all, the spacer thing from the kit on a couple where the cam shaft is fat and the home made one most. I couldn't figure out how to use the pliers thing, it was either hitting stuff or rotated the shim cup so I couldn't get at the little cut out to pop the shim out. The job really sucks without extra shims.