I pulled my motor and have another block being built locally. Today I was pulling accessories and brackets off my motor and got the engine oil cooler off. couldn't blow through the coolant lines so I put one coolant hose in my garden hose and blew the crud out. I noticed some water leaking threw the hole the bolt goes through to mount it to the block. I'm not terribly familiar with the part, it honestly took a bit of search to find what it is. So I'm gonna say it looks like water is seeping through the fins, or tubes, or plates, not sure how its constructed but it looks almost like a motorcycle clutch, stack of plates.

Anyone know if these are rebuildable or replaceable (hopefully not through Toyota). Or possibly a kit to install either an additional filter or block it off. I don't mind a remote filter and oil cooler to do the job if I can get it blocked off.

Any experience or tips welcome.

Thanks guys.

 

Subscribed. I would like to find out about this as well.

 

I just thought that maybe it is leaking because it was out of the motor and the torque of the bolt keeps the parts together. I just don't want to install it and ruin the lower end.

 

That cooler always gets blocked up. It gets feed coolant from the block drain so what ever crud or rust that settles in the block goes right in the cooler. The coolant is self contained in the tube and fins. Coolant shouldn't be leaking through the bolt hole. Oil runs around the fins inside the container and through the bolt.

Where the cooler mounts is actually a oil filter mount.The block has 2 filter mounts. I have a 2wd so my cooler is in the front and the filter is in the back. 4wd is the other way around. If you have the room you can put another filter there. You just have to get the threaded nipple to put in the block for the filter. Any of the remote filter or cooler mounts will work too since it is a standard oil filter mount.

 

Perfect. Thank you for that GDR. I'll just put an aftermarket oil cooler on that side. Guess I'll be calling toyota for that threaded nipple.

 

It came stock on the trucks with towing package option; optional on all others.

Usually, you only have to replace the THREE o-rings in the unit. If it's rusted through due to inattention to the cooling system, it will need replacement.

As stated, you can replace it with an oil filter or other options (outboard filter system).

 

Anyone knoe the secs on the threaded nipple needed for screwing on a filter?

 

I have pinpointed an oil leak to that remote oil filter on my 3.0 vze. I bought an o-ring kit hoping that will do. Anybody have any insider tips I should know about??

 

Change both coolant bypass hoses while you have it off. Easiest way to get to it is to remove the drivers side tire, the rubber skirt, and work through the wheel well.

 

I'm going to tackle this job soon. The FSM only says to drain the coolant, but do you need to drain the oil as well? Both coolant and oil pass through the oil cooler? Thank you for any help.

 

Yeah, what does the FSM know?

The level of the oil in the pan is below the cooler. (Just lay your dipstick along side the tube if you're not sure.) You'll drip out a little, but draining the oil won't change that.

But gee, if you're going to be lying under your truck anyway, wouldn't this be a good time to change the oil?

 

 

Man, you're just not giving the FSM any love, are you?

No, you don't need to drain the coolant. As soon as you disconnect one of the hose, all of the coolant will drain out automatically. On your head.

(The level of the coolant is to the top of the radiator. The oil cooler is close to the bottom of the coolant system.)

 

The more straight forward answer (without the sarcasm ) is yes, you will need to drain the coolant.

The oil cooler is not completely full of oil when the engine is not running, but it is full of coolant.

 

Hey while you're at it, does it look like aguy could install a few hose bibs to a divorced OIL COOLER.I think that is my next project either that or a air compressor driven off the engine. Thanks for the info, best whishes

 

 

It's usually best to drain & flush cooling system with a chemical cleaner before disassembly, just a lot easier. But bottle type brushes work well on piping and tubing. Amine is a good cleaner, that is if you can get your hands on it. Wire brushes and elbow grease. Have fun, and best wishes.