Hey everyone, great forum you got here!

I'm helping a friend of mine get his 93' 2wd 22RE back on the road. It died (loss of power) when he was driving. Had it towed back to my place and now we're just trying to get the darn thing running.

It cranks and cranks, but will not start. I verified spark at the plugs with an in-line spark tester, and replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Plenty of spark.

When we jump the fuel pump connecter at the diagnostic plug, we can hear the fuel pump kick on (whirling noise at the regulator, and a "hum" at the tank). I tried disconnecting the line from the FPR and when we jumped it, it pumped out fuel. We bought a new fuel filter, but haven't installed it yet. I believe the filter may be original at 200K!

Triple checked all the ground connections, and verified there is voltage to the injectors with a test probe. Also, tested the AFM with a multimeter and everything seemed okay. It passed the impedence tests, and when we manually opened and closed the flapper it changed the resistance, so I'm assuming that's okay. New air filter.

Checked the CO relay, and it clicks when the truck is cranking, as does the EFI main relay. (haven't pulled it out and tested it yet though). Also checked that the ECU has power, and that there aren't any blown fuses.

Any ideas? My buddy starts school tomorrow and it'd be nice to get it going soon.

Thanks guys!

 

forgot to mention, we pulled the codes and originally got codes 2, 4, 3, 1. although we may have been reading that wrong. Cleaned the battery connections and now the codes are erased.

 

spray abit of ether it to the throttle body. Does this make it fire?

 

Good idea. Headed to Autozone right now to get some. If its starts, it would lead me to think there's a fuel issue.

 

Still won't start with starting fluid. Pulled the plugs out and they had gas on all of them.

 

pull the valve cover and see if the chain is still there on the cam sprocket. check timing and see if it has jumped by a tooth or so.

 

chain is still on there. with the crank pulley at "0", the top dot seems to be about 1 chain link shy of 12:00...

 

set the timing.

 

Kind of at a standstill now, and things aren't looking good. There were broken pieces of the guide floating around in the chain housing, and it looks to have jumped timing. Being an interference motor, I'm afraid some valves may be bent. My buddy's going to have to make an excecutive decision.


Not really what we were hoping for.

On the plus side, the head looks like it would be pretty easy to take off from here. How do the bottom end of these 22re motors hold up?

 

These motors are pretty bullet proof, if it jumped just 1 tooth, you should be alright before you bend valves, but Ive seen one tooth, throw enough timing off, that you wont get any spark. Get a new timing chain and chain guides. Some people like the tougher metal chain guides, personally I like the OEM plastic ones, plastic breaks and the damage is minor, thats why their plastic. Might as well do the water pump too. Do the install. Make sure when installing the new chain, to set the TDC and align the timing marks on the Distributor gear also. ALSO.. there is a Timing cover bolt usually hidden under oil in the head, at the front of the head, dont forget that bolt.

 

step by step right here. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/timingch.pdf

 

^thanks for the help! the only thing holding me back is if the valves are bent. I guess a leakdown test would be worth the time before getting too far into it. I just looked at this DIY and it doesn't seem too bad.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

The parts are reasonably priced, and we don't really have much to lose at this point.

 

Here's a couple of pics to show how far off it is. Here's where the crank pulley is set



here's how the top looks:

 

what do i win!!!! Just kidding. Do the timing set and be done with it. The motor most likely will be fine and the timing job isn't that tough and could be done in a day. Do a LOT of research before you start and have a strong grasp on what's required and then tear into it.

 

My buddy and I did a leakdown test and all cylinders seal up fine, so we ordered the kit from enginebuilder.com and we're tackling it this weekend.

Thanks for everyone's advise!

 

So did it work. Give us an update

 

It did work. We replaced the timing chain, sprockets, water pump, cover, and guides. All parts from Rock in Portland. We also replaced the oil pan gasket and cleaned out everything we could get to. We also ordered new plugs and wires and a new cap and rotor. Overall the job wasn't bad at all. Not having to remove the intake or exhaust manifold helped. Its been 8K since the job and it runs like a champ. We're shooting for 300K.






a buddy of mine rebuilds Denso alternators for Legends and NSX's, so i convinced him to rebuild this one. New brushes:



We F@#Kin' did it!