hello everyone my 88 yota 22re is getting some new pipes tomm, and im leaning towards going with 2 1/4" tubbing from the manifold back with a high flow cat and a 50 series delta flow flowmaster, from what ive heard on the tube it doesnt sound ricey at all but has a nice deep tone for a 4 banger, whats everyones opinion on that setup im all ears

 

Nice choice. I'm 2.25 out the rear infront of the rear driverside spring shackle. Have them tuck it in tight. If you wheel you don't want anything hangin down.

 

sounds like a good combo to me, which high flow cat?

 

I agree with mud pig. Looks like a good setup! Now all you need is some headers!

 

If you have a good exhaust guy have him make the "Y" that comes off the manifold longer, you'll get a little more performace from the manifold without the cost of a header. Have seen it done frequently on Marlin's forumn but not very common here.

 

ohh so what your saying muddpigg is that the stock manifold has 2 exits that form a y pipe, so what u say should be done is make the v section of the y pipe longer for more performance, did i understand that correctly

 

I wouldn`t waste the extra money on the stock Y pipe, save your money and spend it on a good header.

 

Yes, don't know what you can expect from it as far as performance gains. Have seen it done. Given that the DT tri Y header is running between $300 and $500 this might be a good inbetween on both sides performance and money.

I know Pacesetters and hedmann headers are cheaper. I had poor fitment issues with 2 pacesetters. Don't know about hedman but their cheap and seems with headers you get what you pay for.

If you plan on going with a header down the road have them use a direct fit flange in front of the cat converter. Like a two bolt 2.25 inner diameter collector. Will make it easier to install header.

I like a flex pipe between the cat and head, don't come stock though.

 

idk now, im kinda having second thoughts on the flowmaster now though, not that im afraid of it being to loud cause i have a 98 silverado with duel 40's and its loud as ˟˟˟˟ and love it, but im afraid that it might be to loud for a 4 banger

 

I'm the wrong person for those concerns I'm rocking a glasspak.

 

ohhh haha, i might just bite the bullet and go with the flowmaster

 

I second that opinion.

 

I took off my 40 series a while back on my DD. Could barely hear the stereo above 2500 RPM and it pissed me off. Really loud in my experience, I actually ran the exact setup you speak of. Also didn't notice any GIANT gains, obviously gave me better throttle response and a couple horses but I couldn't justify the noise....

 

I wouldn't bother with a header until you actually need one, like if you crack the stocker. I went with engnbldr's recommendation of 2.25 pipe after the collector (or down pipe or whatever it's called), with a high flow cat and a straight flow muffler. (not sure if the 40 or 50 series is straight flow or if they have baffles...) This was a seat-of-the-pants power increase.

Later on I noticed a leak at the flange of the manifold, took it off and it was warped, and got a good deal on a trail gear header so I figured I would go with that. ABSOLUTELY NO noticeable power increase AT ALL. All I really got was a noisier engine since now I can hear the combustion happen, whereas the stocker was thick metal and very quiet.

Ted's advice was that a header only beats the stocker at very high rpm, where virtually no one drives unless you're racing.

 

4-1 headers are for top end, 4-2-1 are for low end, not too many 4-2-1 headers on the market, DT tri-y is the only one which comes to mind.

Factory manifold is a 4-2-1. Which means most of the time if you get a header unless it's the DT one, your gonna sacrifice low end for top end.

The there is short tube and long tube headers which is another discussion in itself.

So for the most part Ted is right. Since no one really raps their motor out above 5,000 RPM.

 

Yeah he did say the tri-y would be a little better on low end than a 4-1, but both of them show noticeable increase way up high. And that thorley header is not cheap... But he also said the performance increase was not worth it for what the header costs. Of course the money spent vs performance gains is for everyone to decide for themselves... I think a lot of the time peeps get the whole exhaust done at the same time, and are mistaking the header gains for the 2.25 tubing. I honestly couldn't believe I was driving the same truck after I got rid of the crappy old exhaust.

I consulted Ted a lot when I was doing my exhaust. He told me the 4-1 wouldn't hurt my lowend at all and he was right. Truck drives the same as when the stocker was on it. And I'm scared to get my revs so high enough to notice the top end.

 

not to get into the whole discussion about headers, but I recall reading an article that claims the best header is the stock one, so long as you open up the pipe behind it. i guess the idea behind that was that the stock pipe restricts flow enough at low RPMs to give good backpressure and make torque, but then if you open up the downpipe to 2" and then from the CAT-back to 2.25", then you have the free-flowing properties needed for high RPM activity. if I were to do my exhaust and the shop was willing to do this at a decent price, that's the route I would go with.

basically, it's what mudpigg suggested - have the shop remake the downpipe/Y-pipe out of 2" ID pipe, extending the "Y" section a couple inches further (so that it accentuates the 4-2-1) - then go with your high-flow CAT (making sure it's installed horizontally for more ground clearance instead of the stupid vertical CAT like I have on my truck), and follow it up with 2.25" ID all the way to the tail (with your choice of muffler of course).

BTW - dunno how much you're willing to spend on your exhaust, but it might not be cheap if you have them start messing with flanged parts like the downpipe. i called about a half dozen shops to inquire about them rebuilding my Y-pipe when I found it was cracked all the way around the Y. My train of though was that if I'm going to have it worked on they might as well make it better with a longer "Y" - most of them quoted me around $250 just to make this section of pipe since it's flanged and because of the angles making it difficult for a typical exhaust shop to get right. anyways, what I'm getting at is that you can find some pretty nice full exhausts online. one of the best priced ones out there is from Dave'z Offroad. oh yeah...his come with a flowmaster since you were debating the muffler

 

FYI when I first had my exhaust opened up I got it all for 280. And that included the high flow magnaflow stuff (ebay) and fabbed tubing by the exhaust shop. And the difference in power was astounding with that - I would say a one-gear difference on hill climbs, and able to climb slight inclines in fifth on the interstate. (with 33's and 4.10s at the time...) I didn't mess with the downpipe at all. I think Ted's rec was to keep that stock and go to 2.25 after it. But also use a straight flow muffler - ie when you look into it you see daylight, not a baffle. They're loud no doubt but not deafening and not necessarily ricey.

In contrast, when I put my header on it ended up costing me around 400 including install (some welding required) and the header itself. I didn't want to deal with rusty old junk yard headers and the header I got was cheaper than buying a new stock manifold. As for performance though... not noticeable.

 

I agree with him on this one. I made a 2.5 cat back for my brother's '94 2wd 22RE, and boy was that a mistake. It took a little power from the top end, and I had to play with timing a little bit to get it back. When I get the chance, I'm going to put a smaller section of piping in between the cat and muffler, to try and gain some power back. I really wish we had used smaller piping. Over all though, after I fiddled with the timing to get it to run a litte better, it really opened up nicely.

-btw-this was leaving everything stock from the cat forward. It still has the stock cat too.