Hey guys,
I am replacing my timing chain. I have been trying to get my crankshaft pulley bolt off for 5 days. I have tried everything. breaker on frame bump starter, breaker hanging down and bump starter so it can swing and get momentum, 4 foot pipe on the end of breaker bar with wood shoved in the crank shaft, I even called a mobile mechanic to come out with his big compressor and impact wrench and all we have managed to do is round off the bolt head. I tried heating the bolt with a torch. So, now I need to take the engine out and take it down to the machine shop. I was told their is a possibility of welding a big nut onto the head of the bolt, Possibly drilling the bolt out and retapping but i shudder at the thought of that. After the mobile mechanic rounded off the bolt he told me well, looks like your going to need a new engine. I am very frustrated because I did a compression test before I started taking everything apart and I had 170 across all 4 cylinders so it really seems like a waste to put a new engine in. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas about what I should do? thanks for any ideas or help guys, Doug.

 

Wow, now that the bolt is rounded off you're gonna have to either weld something on or cut the head off the bolt pull the pulley and try to drill and easy out the rest of the bolt. Did you hose this thing down with some penetrant? PB blaster or something??

 

Yup, PB blaster and Kroil for 4 days straight. did not help it at all. Do you guys think I need to pull the engine? is there a possibility of welding something to the bolt and getting it off if I have the vehicle towed to a machine shop. Anyway I am not sure if the timing chain has ever been replaced, the truck has 200,000 miles on it. I suppose the bolt gets good and comfortable after 20 years and doesn't want to move.

 

I'd go with wielding a bigger nut on it first.

 

what would be the best way to cut this thing off? I realize I am probably going to be buying a new crank pulley so if that gets screwed up its ok. I dont have a cutting torch.

 

I would deffinatley weld a new nut onto it. I wouldnt try to cut it off and use an easy out, the way your talking your just gonna break an easy out and then if u cant get that out, its damn near impossible to drill.

X2 on the PB blaster soak it for a couple days spraying it every chance you get. And weld the nut on before your start spraying it, so you get a nice clean strong weld.

 

Welding sounds great except I cant weld and I dont have any buddies that do either. So the machine shop is going to be doing the welding. haha, anyway this project turned into a pain in the butt but all i can do is laugh about it i suppose. I got a good deal on the truck so it is worth the work.

 

Where you from, If your anywhere around me Id say bring it to my machine shop. Ill get it out...

 

let the machine shop deal with getting it out?????

 

Thanks for the offer but Im in Santa Cruz CA and my AAA wont go that far. In your opinion would you rather have the engine out of the truck to work on it in this scenario or would you rather have it in the truck? The machine shop thats local said it would just be hourly @75$ to get the thing off and he's not making any promises.

 

Either way it could be done. I guess it is up to you weather you want to pull it or not. I would say probably easier out of the truck.

 

i say leave it in there....if you take it out then you can't torque on it as much because it's not bolted SOLID to anything.

even on a stand you can't torque it as much as it is in the truck..

and i can tell you how to get it off...but you'll need to be up higher than the truck..

get a couple lengths of steel pipe...good stuff..one small one that can fit around the ratchet TIGHTLY...then a bigger one to go around the smaller pipe (for reinforcement...because this pipe will bend)

get up high enough to torque on it...i promise you...it will come off..you just have to put enough for onto it...

i've gotten bolts off of old tractors that a brand new 1" Snap On impact wrench couldn't get off...it's definitely feasible..

 

I just went through your little nightmare. My bolt would not budge for anything. I was on Pirate 4x4 and a lot of guys over there had the same problem, but they offered some good ideas. What I ended up doing is getting a cut off wheel for my grinder and cut a little tab off of the washer. That is a spring washer and once some of the tension was off of it, it came right out. Granted there was some collateral damage to the pulley because of such a tight space and the bolt was a total loss. The bolt was $14.00 from the dealer, however they wanted $489 for a new pulley. I just went to a specialty part store and got a new pulley assembly shiped from Dallas for $105.00. It was a little pricey for getting one bolt out, but after the nightmare I went through, it was well worth it.

 

allright, well I suppose I will pull the engine. While it's out what wear items would you guys recommend checking? crank, rod bearings? I had 170 psi across all 4 cylinders when I did the compression test so I don't think it needs valve or piston work.

 

I think it would easier in the truck as well...

 

Next time you need a pulley let me know. I could build you a nice pulley for less than that..

 

How rounded is it now? Metrinch sockets may still work on it, they hit on the flat part of the hex instead of the points. Try some heat and if you have to file the six sides down to the next smaller size socket.

 

easier to torque on but not easier to access.

 

That is a good point, I like the idea about cutting a slot in the spring washer to relieve some load, maybe with my sawzall I could get away with not damaging the pulley but that might be a wet dream...

 

I will go take a picture and post it on here of the bolt head.