Thanks for all the help with this, it was a big pain in the butt. I am just gonna buy a new one tomorrow. I damaged my crank pulley and harmonic balancer however with the grinder. my stock balancer has 6 cut outs around the perimeter while the ones at the pick and pull had 3 or 2 or 1. the parts guy told me this was independent of the engine and only used to balance the balancer itself, can anybody verify this? thanks, doug.

 

Oh Good Lord, ....I'll be tackling this on the weekend(The timing kit I mean)...Please, God, help me?

Dang, it doesn't look rusted in at all! So, ...it goes on at 120lbs or so,....and by the time you take it off it's at about, oh, 160lbs or so?

GREAT JOB, LFMT, I'm really happy for you! So, you cut off that section of the bolt flange and it then twisted out by hand???? Dang!

 

yeah, i have really strong hands, lol

 

Hahaha. ......Well, I'm just wondering cuz mines going on 260k, and I'm not sure if it's ever been off. I'm just wondering what's the best way to try, first? I mean, I don't want to round it off...so just go by the book, first? (1/2'' drive, huge breaker, pass side frame rail??) I have a neighbor with EVERYTHING, and I mean everything. .....What should I ask him for, he'll help me out for sure.

 

heres a good walkthrough

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

 

I recently removed my bolt by turning the crank clockwise a quarter turn from TDC and filling the #1 combustion chamber with 1/4 inch poly rope(about 30 feet of it) with a long thin flat screwdriver to push through the spark plug hole. Using a 24inch breaker bar and impact 19 mm it came of effortlessly. I plan to use the same method when I torque it back to 116ft/lbs when I finish. I guess every method has its risks. Even the pulley holder could deform the pully. Also my 1000ft/lb impact didn't budge it, probably because the bolt/crank is kind of springy.

I decided to add this:
If you use this rope method be sure the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke otherwise the valves might get harmed by the rope. This way both valves are closed when the rope is compressed. Good luck and thanks to the guy I learned this tip from.

 

wow, i missed this mess.

glad ya got it off....holy hell, i thought i had it hard.

let me show you my trick for getting it back on.

i ordered my new bolt from LC Engineering http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...C-9BDEFE32754A


here's some pics of how i got it back on....similar to how i got it off.

 

webbing tied around the pulley held with carpet anti-skid pad (no that's not enough)



then a wrench thrown in to tighten the tourniquet




and there ya have it

 

my only other suggestions regarding the bolt.:

i did not see any indication in the FSM or anywhere else for that matter, to use LOCTITE or anything on the bolt....I used nothing on mine. for reassembly, i did use my old bolt for some of the twisting and turning i had to do and to snug the cover down but of course, then i replaced it with the new bolt....but really i only put a wrench on that new bolt one time....so what i'm saying,is in my paranoid world, i might suggest 2 bolts...for the money it's not an excessive waste....sounds like you need a new pulley though if i read all this thread correctly.

 

Good Job, I knew it would work

 

You're the man.

 

way to go snobbs....i still have no clue why that worked, but hey....it worked. good advice man!

 

It looks like from this pic that the outside of that huge flange makes contact first, then as you tighten the bolt it pulls the flange center into contact creating more preload on the bolt. Its kind of like a wave spring. Cutting away the flange releases the preload and now its not tight anymore.

 

crazy good.

makes sense.