First of all this site is awesome! I too have fell victim to the (mushy pedal) it all started when I bought the runner 6 years ago. But I just recently realized how bad it really was so first replaced some questionable hard lines to the lspv, and then the m/c. No change in pedal. So new wheel cylinders and shoes with proper adj/ and bleeding, no change.Next on the list brake booster, guess what? no change. I am to the point that I am loosing sleep over this. I also capped off the rear line from the m/c and where the front line tees off from the pass/ side to the lspv and bled the front brakes, the front held good/ better pressure without the rear brakes hooked up. so then i capped the m/c entirely to check pedal press/ and it held good, to me this eliminates the m/c / booster and any adjustments on them that could cause them to act up.So now I priced a lspv from the dealer cause there is no aftermarket, just a little pricey for me to replace on a hunch $290 to $360. So to rule the lspv out I capped the front line at the tee on the pass/side going to the lspv and removed the rear line going to the lspv and ran the rear line directly to the tee/splitter on the rear axel. And nothing changed what a surprise. So I "bench bled" the m/c again but on the truck I noticed that the first half of the m/c strike the rear line of the m/c got pressure but the front did not, second half the stroke front line of the m/c got pressure but not the rear. I do not know if this is the way it should work or not does any one know ?PLEASE ANY IDEAS WELCOME I AM AT MY WITTS END HERE AND IT SOUNDS LIKE I AM NOT ALONE!

 

Well thanks for all the ideals, But i figured out this brake problem.

 

What was the solution?

 

kinda sounds like a bad flex line back at the rear axle

 

Well this is what i did 1st I adjusted the rear shoes to have a slight drag. 2nd I ran the truck in forward and reverse with the rear end on jack stands at various speeds with light pressure on the brake pedal and occasionally applying hard pressure to the pedal. Then I repeated steps 1 and 2. It helped alot truck stops better than it ever did, well your not gonna lock up 35's but I feel alot safer .

 

I think there might be an even more effective solution. You stated that you "bled the system properly", however you may have missed one bleeding point, especially considering that you have good pressure on the fronts alone.
There is a third bleeding point at the rear end, in addition to the slave cylinders. There is a distribution block that the brake line goes to, out of memory.. somewhere just above the center of the diff. On it there is a bleeder valve. I spent hours bleeding and re-bleeding and adjusting until I realized I missed that point, after replacing the hard lines in my '94.

 

you should convert it to tundra disc brakes man. thats what i did.you gotta run 17" rims to fit them though...

 

holy thread bump batman!

 

I am new to this forum, but I think this third line is what I was going to ask about. Does it "dead end" attached to the rear axel on the drivers side? If I could figure out how to attach a picture I would