How fast can I go with my hubs locked, but in 2WD? I don't need 4WD on the highway, but as soon as I get off I gotta throw it back in.

Never gone above like 35 or 40mph with the hubs locked. Is it the same as an ADD when you have them locked but not in 4WD, and you can go any speed you want? It's just CV's right?

 

Assuming you have an open front diff, you can drive as fast as you want with your hubs locked.. It's only gonna add extra wear on your CVs, and front ring/pinion.. as long as you've got good fluid in the diff, and no rips in your boots you won't hurt anything..

I notice with my engine, gearing and tires, that there is definate power loss when I have my hubs locked but still in 2wd.. Truck is just a little slower, and requires just a little extra time ot get up to speed..

There was another thread a few months ago, I think it was about tires, or 4wd??? ANyways, quite a few guys say they lock their hubs in october, and free them up in april without any problems..

edit: Here is the link. Right near the top of the page it is discussed. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...44/index2.html

 

Cool thanks, I figured as much, just being on the safe side.

Yeah I have a fully stock front end, well stock everything for that matter, so yup stocker open front diff....and rear.

Thanks.

 

No prob. I was in the same boat as you, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to mess anything up by doing it. It seemed fine in my mind, but I figured I'd "ask an expert" before I did.

 

Yeah you can go as fast as you want.

You will see a hit on your fuel economy, and increased wear on the front end. It will handle highway speeds, but is NOT designed to do so with regularity.

 

Whatever you do, don't try it 1st!!!

Make sure you start a thread 1st, ALWAYS! Never try anything simple like locking your hubs and going for a drive, w/o 1st starting a thread on the subject...

 

Yeah we get lots of winter in canada. My hubs are basically locked from Oct/Nov until March.

 

Thanks to the guys who provided useful, not dick information.

tried4X2signN....Are you saying something simple as in just do it and see if anything in the front end can't handle it and then have to do a repair in the dead of winter and a foot of snow on the ground, is that the simple process you were talking about???

I didn't realize this was the site for professional's who know everything about everything, and that asking any questions was frowned upon. Are any of your 78 posts useful at all or just meaningless douchebag posts. Go F yourself, lame ass!

 

Gonna TRY and put you in a frame of mind, so bear with me...

1: The rear axle drives with axle shafts and drive shafts rotating?... What would make the front any different? (psst! "balanced shafts")

2: If you couldnt drive a Toyota with the hubs locked at moderate speeds w/o breaking something, it'd be the biggest POS on the planet or at least on the internet... And no way would a Toyota have the reputation it has today. Ease off the melodrama a little... Rotating shafts hardly lead to breakage. It might vibrate you to death, and or kill some MPG... But hardly "break something". And you'd know LONG before it did, if it came to it anyway.

That's reserved for like a jeep or a Borg Warner cases that blew up at highway speeds... NOT A TOYOTA!

I'm trying to get you to think b/c one day you might be in a position somebody can't answer an easy and self obtainable question for you, don't get mad at me...

 

Listen man, I'm not gonna argue with you about anything, and I probably won't even look at this post again, but I clearly stated that I figured it would be fine, but just figured I'd ask to be on the safe side. Is that big of a deal, did I crash the site with my simple question?? Relax.

Other people answered with helpful information, you answered as if I should already know everything. The whole reason this site exists is for questions. If you don't want to answer simple ones that seem stupid to you, then don't.

I understand about axle shafts, driveshafts/balanced shafts. I was just asking a simple question about going 70mph with them spinning, but not being powered, I didn't ask you specifically about it, in your great wisdom, and also didn't ask for a snotty answer.

Goodbye.

 

The truth is, I'm pretty sure only you can answer that question anyway...

My 1st truck was a 91 reg cab and it wouldn't go 10mph w/o vibrating all over the place.

My 84 will do 50, easy.

Some guys with the same truck and have driven at speed might chime in and tell you all is fine. But you might have unbalanced shafts and wheel weights falling off shafts is not uncommon.

I've just driven enough Toyota's to know I can't group every Toyota "whether it will, or whether it won't" stuff like this into one category, and find it hardly worth starting a thread for.

sorry if it pissed you off...

 

There is no such thing as a stupid question that is an honest question. Especially when you are trying to take care of your truck.

Regardless of blowback you may get from people who have an elevated self opinion.

Keep asking.

 

Your manual hubs in the locked position work just like ADD hubs.

ADD setups have a solid hub flange instead of the lock/unlock mechanism, which keeps your cv's engaged or "locked" all the time, in short you cannot "unlock" the wheels from the axles with ADD.

Toyota sold lots of 4Runners and trucks with ADD so they could market 'shift on the fly' 4 wheel drive for folks who don't want to get their hands dirty touching the hubs. It is perfectly fine to drive at highway speeds in 2H with the hubs locked (edit) so long as you have an open differential.

 

i drove with the hubs locked on my '80, and the front driveshaft u-joints fell apart and sheered the front driveshaft in half, blew up the t-case, busted a hole in the tranny, and put a BIG dent in my pass. floor board.....a word of advice...check everything before you lock your hubs..and EVERY DAY after you keep them locked..you never know when you have a bad set of joints on the front DS until you lock it in and feel a nasty vibration..by then it's too late LOL.

and it also puts premature wear on your CV's, front diff, and hubs, but as long as your torsion bars aren't cranked, you're CV's will be fine, as well as your front diff, and if your hubs get noisy, hard to turn, or warm to the touch, open em up and grease em!!

 

Yes, actually no. You forgot the ADD keeps the ring from turning and thus the front shaft.

Both shafts, and I'm pretty sure the spiders are singing, with ADD.

Both shafts, the whole ring and pinon plus the front drive shaft for the non ADD.

 

Thanks for the clarification. The cv axles spin all the time with ADD, and the vacuum controlled actuator disconnects the axles from the ring/pinion and front driveshaft if I understand you correctly.

 

No. It disconnects the long shaft by sliding a collar over the axle to join it, and back to disconnect it. Just like POS Dodge truck, and some Jeep axles... But there's a Posi-Lock kit for those.

Notice on the image below, there is no disconnect from the short shaft to the carrier of the open differential. Drag keeps the front shaft from turning b/c something has to, there's no disconnect. Well something has to turn, and it's the spider gears in the diff.



http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#IFS

 

Drove my 88 from Spokane to Yakima Washington with the hubs locked and 70MPH average speeds and no ill effects other than fuel economy dropped from around 22 to about 16.

Axle half-shafts are the same between ADD / non-ADD. As mentioned though, non-ADD setups will spin the differential and propeller shaft when the hubs are locked (hence why mileage drops). Make sure the gear oil is in good condition and the u-joint and cv joint on the propeller shaft are greased.