Just like the title says. I finally figured out what each stick does on the Toyota t-case (was sooooo confused for a while) but didn't see anywhere in the reading where it says that you still have the option of neutral.

Thanks.

 

Yup, you have hi lo and neutral in the crawl box

 

Assuming you have duals...but you also would have neutral in on the right stick with twin sticks in a single case I do believe.

 

Yup, still got neutral on mine. One stick toggles between L-N-H, and the other for 2x4 vs 4x4

 

Thank you folks.

Hey toyNG how do you like the lockrite in the front? I have to option to buy one already set up in the carrier/housing and that's the reason I'm looking to the twin stick.

 

Lockrite in the front makes it a 4wheel beast! Locking the front makes it harder to steer, but you get so much more traction its ridiculous. I run with the rear locked, and just put it in 4wd when I absolutely need it.

 

Considering that the old stick pivots left-right and up-down, the two left positions (2H/4H) are the right shift rail and the three right positions (4L/N/4H) are the left shift rail. (fwiw, transmissions operate much the same way, but with tree shift rails instead of two)

Right shift rail, 2H/4H, viewed by itself, is really just 2wd/4wd -- all it does is engage the front drive shaft.

Left shift rail, 4L/N/4H, viewed by itself, is really just L/N/H -- all it does is change the output gearing.

These can (generally) operate independently of each other, which is where the dual shifter comes in. With the dual shifter installed, you no longer can wiggle a transfer case shifter left-right -- the right stick operates the right rail and the left stick operates the left rail.

So no, you don't lose transfer case neutral, it will be on the left stick.

 

Actually this depends on what case you actually have. Some of the early shift rails never had a detent for the Neutral. So, the shifter would only float between low and hi range. Its still technically in neutral. It just won't stay there.

 

Cool. My confusion was related to Dana 20's and 300's where (IIRC) one stick ran the front and one ran the rear. The Toyota t-case just jacked me all up while looking at pictures of what each stick is doing.

 

In that case, he wouldn't have (a detented) neutral before, yes?

 

I love my front locker. I didn't plan on running a front locker, but I came across a really good deal on a front diff with 4.88s and a lockright, so I just went ahead and got it. Having a front locker is not at all what 99% of people on this board say it is. Everyone typically says that you'll break CV's instantly and that steering will be next to impossible. In my experience, the steering is not really that bad at all. I have a twin stick, which allows me to run 2 LO, but even when I have it in 4 LO, the steering is not difficult. And with careful driving, I have yet to break a CV (knock on wood).

My truck never sees snow or ice, so I can't comment on how the locker does there.

My advice is to buy the diff with the locker. After installing it, go test it out to see if you really do need it. If you love it, get a twin stick and sell your old open diff. If you don't really like it, or don't really think you need it, you can always sell it for as much as you paid. Those things sell pretty easily it seems.

 

Thanks again for the help. I use my rig as a DD/camping/fishing rig and I chase fish in some really out of the way places. A few times I had to cancel the fishing trip since I couldn't make it into the lake/stream. The open front would lose traction and then the back would do like wise even with the locker. A few times I had to hit the trail going faster than was actually safe just to get up and over and in my opinion that is NOT the way to drive off road.