CV axle questions for the master shadetree guys:

1. The left and right CV axles are the same, right?
2. Can you drive the truck with the CV axles removed?
3. Anybody got a spare CV axle they want to get rid of? I want to have a spare on hand in case I bust one.
4. Are there any on-line manuals available so I can see how the front wheel bearings are installed?

 

1. Yes
2. No
3. No
4. No

 

Spare CV's: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=5&o=2&fpart=1

 

1. The left and right CV axles are indeed the same.
2. Technically, yes you can drive the truck w/out the CV axles. However, you need to have an "inboard joint" in place (the part of the axle that sticks into the center diff) to keep the diff fluid from spilling out. The Outboard joint (if its not broken) can also be left in place to keep dust and dirt from getting into the unitized bearings. I have broken the outboard joint, and the axle shaft itself. However, removing the outboard joint will leave the bearings exposed, refer to the bottom picture to solve this issue.

Here the outboard joint (part of the axle stub) was broken off. In this situation, you will need to remove the outboard joint and the axle shaft, leaving the inboard joint in place to keep the oil in the diff. This is a quick field fix that, if you have a front locker, can get you back on the trail again, to get back home.


In this picture, the actual ORS shaft was broken, leaving the outboard joint and the inboard joint intact. In this case, I removed the outboard joint, and zip tied the remaining axle to the bottom part of the suspension. To keep the unitized bearings clean, see the next photo.


Here is the field fix to get me back to civilization. I did have a spare axle shaft, but putting it on in the field would take too much time. To keep the unitized bearings clean, I used a cap from a cup of bearing grease and zip tied it over the seal. This worked very very well. Despite rain, hail and mud in the next 15 minutes, the bearings stayed clean.


As for online manuals, to replace bearings, unless you have a manual and a press, I wouldn't try this at home. You will need some special press parts, ORS can help here, and a good press. When I drove from the trail to the KOA (first picture) I had left the inboard joint where it was. This caused me $350 dollars in damage. The shreaded stub axle on the outboard joint ate up the spindle. In the end, I had to replace the spindle (98 Tacoma non ABS), the unitized bearing, a retaining clip, have have all this pressed in by the service shop. Belive me, its just better to have a plastic cap from a bearing grease cup and an inboard joint handy. Heck, you can even use the Inboard joint from a Tacoma. You just need something to keep the oil from draining out of the diff.

I used to have a bunch of pdf files that had pictures of the 3rd gen parts. I'll try and get them back up soon.

Hope this helps...

 

Cool. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Holler when you get the pdfs back online.

Regarding spares. Would you recommend having a whole front axle assembly on hand or just specific pieces such as the outer CV?

 

I carry pieces and an entire setup. Use the pieces for the trail repair, and when you back at camp, you will have time to swap out the entire setup.

 

For spares would you go rebuilt or used?

 

If used, I would take a close look at the mileage on vehicle, as well as how the vehicle was treated. Example being, was the vehicle used off-road or not. If not, grab it! If it was plainly used off-road, I would continue to look around.

Rebuilt, is a great way to go if you are going to stick with stock components. I have upgraded to ORS axles and outboard joints. so, stock form doesn't cut it anymore. I have a stock taco axle and pieces that I can use while I am repairing my ORS stuff.

 

The ADD outboard had to be installed to drive. Or you will smash and destroy the bearings. There is a set of cut off ADD outers in Phoenix that we could all share. Don't drive an ADD 4Runner without the outter CV's. You'll be sorry.

Your Manual converted outter does not have to be installed. Full float versus semi-float.

 

Thank you Schaefer for distinguishing between the two. Yes, I should have clarified that my setup is a manaul hub setep. As Schaefer stated, the outboard joint will be needed to drive on. Thus, have spare parts on the trail.

 

That's interesting. It didn't look to me as though the axle stub carried any load at the hub, but that's why I asked.

Where do these CV axles usually break? At the CV right. So theoretically you would usually be able to pull the axle assembly, disconnect the inner and outer stub assemblies, and put them back in to be able to drive back home. Correct?

Of course if you had a spare axle assembly you could do the swap and be done in less time.

 

I would try and collect a spare axle, and then the pieces to get you off the trail... You certainly don't want to be holding up the entire crowd while you try and pull the inboard joint fron the diff. Believe me , this is no easy task, and NOT something you want to do on the trail. Even at home, I had one heck of a time trying to get that joint out. The snap ring that holds the inboard joint in place is the booger that makes it really difficult to pound the inboard joint out.

 

Good point, although I didn't have that much trouble getting my inner stub axle out of the diff this weekend.

The inner joint is really easy to disconnect from the axle, so I agree that leaving it in place would be a good idea for a field repair, epecially if you have a line of 25 folks behind you on the Golden Spike, eh?

 

SteveO-

From your description of your manual hub kit it sounds like someone could purchase a Taco manual hub spindle, lockout, and CV joint. The outer CV joint from the manual axle could then be swapped onto the stock 4Runner inner axle and the manual spindle installed. What am I missing?

Thanks

 

Different spline count.

 

What is a different spline count? I'm talking about seperating the CV joints at the tulip, the outer CV would be manual taco and the inner would be 4R.

 

That is the setup I have. I have a '98 taco outboard joint, a 4Runner shaft from ORS and an inboard 4Runner joint. I chose to use the 4Runner due to its larger size. The 4Runner tulip bearings are much larger than the Tacoma tulip bearings.

You should talk to Mike at ORS, he can set the record strait on this.

 

Is it required to have the ORS shaft because the 4R and Taco have different size tulip joints, or is it possible to make a hybrid shaft on my own?

Thanks

 

The tulip joint on the 4Runner and the Taco are indeed different size.

 

I haven't spent the time to look at the set-up, but is there an alternative to getting the ORS kit that'll still give you manual hubs up front without having to spend the $$$?