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Lifting Options on 87 4runner (IFS and 4" lift kit already installed)

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:01 AM
  #1  
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Question Lifting Options on 87 4runner (IFS and 4" lift kit already installed)

Hi guys,

First post here, and I did some searching here and other places already. I posted this very post at Pirate4x4 but didn't get the best reposonse...

Here's my original post - hoping you guys can lend some knowledge?

Thanks in advance!

*********************************************

Hi everyone,

I have an 87 4Runner with 32" tires and a very lackluster Pro Comp 4 inch lift kit installed (20,000 miles ago).

The kit used the stock rear leafs and 4 inch blocks in the rear. Needless to say, the rear end is sagging terribly (260,000 miles now) on what I'm sure are original rear leafs, and the bumpstops have about an inch of clearance - I bottom out everywhere - even in parking lots.

SO....my questions are these:

- When I get new rear leafs, how "tall" can I go? stick with 4", or get something that advertises "5-6" like Superlift does? Does it matter if the rear ends up being a tad higher than the front?

- For the front, I've read that I can raise the IFS up to 1.5" over stock by adjusting the torsion bars - knowing this, could I just get the 5" or 6" rear leafs (lose the blocks of course!) and adjust the front up to match?

thanks in advance
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #2  
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I'd recommend getting rid of the blocks and installing new leafs, in the 5" range. Whether you go with a 4-5" or 5-6" is up to you. If the rear is too high, the steering could be a bit twitchy on you and the truck may wander a bit since the alignment angles are altered slightly.

On my 88, I have ProComp 33311 leafs in the rear and a ProComp Stage II up front and am quite happy with it. It sets mostly level, unloaded. If I throw a few hundred pounds in the rear I get a slight drop in the rear but nothing too extreme, maybe 1/2".

Tweaking the torsion bars will result in the front riding quite a bit stiffer than stock.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #3  
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From: Lake City, Fl
no offence, but I can see why the guys on Pirate gave you responces you didn't like

If you're wanting to go much higher, I would look into a SAS. IFS is only going to take you SO high, and still be reliable and strong

just my opinion


just a quick question though... why are you wanting more lift if you're only running 32"s? you should be able to clear 35"s with a bracket lift!



Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Dec 6, 2009 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #4  
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From: seattle
what are you wanting to use the runner for? are you wheeling it or just lifting it for looks? and obviously you can do a body lift but thats kinda frowned upon. if you do a BL id only go an inch maybe two.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
...
just a quick question though... why are you wanting more lift if you're only running 32"s? you should be able to clear 35"s with a bracket lift!


Originally Posted by Philbert
...The kit used the stock rear leafs and 4 inch blocks in the rear. Needless to say, the rear end is sagging terribly (260,000 miles now) on what I'm sure are original rear leafs, and the bumpstops have about an inch of clearance - I bottom out everywhere - even in parking lots.
...
thanks in advance
I think that addresses your question.
He doesn't want to go higher, but rather get rid of the sagging rear springs and get the travel back in the rear. The secondary question was if he got the 5-6" lift springs and ended up too high in the rear, what could be done to the front to level it.

Last edited by abecedarian; Dec 6, 2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:58 AM
  #6  
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From: bismarck nd
it is ok for the back to sit a little higher than the back if it ends up sitting too high you can put in a set of bj spacers
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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From: Vian, OK
sooo..get some flexy springs from one of the companies that does the SAS kits (marlin, allpro, trail gear and such) throw some 5" springs in the rear..it will be a tad high at first but will settle down a bit to sit pretty close to level (at least it should......LOL)..

and for the front..if it still sits a tad high..get some 1.5" BJ spacers..and then relax em down or crank em a bit to make it sit where you want it to..

orr ya could get creative and run the Blazeland Long Travel kit on the front that will give you about an extra 2" of lift LOL
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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From: palmer ak
get new leafs do what ever you can to get rid of those lift blocks i have lift blocks on mine the truck looks great doesn't sag but i have horrible axle roll
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
I think that addresses your question.
He doesn't want to go higher, but rather get rid of the sagging rear springs and get the travel back in the rear. The secondary question was if he got the 5-6" lift springs and ended up too high in the rear, what could be done to the front to level it.

Exactly.

Maybe I could have written my post better and that's what led to the snarky remarks on Pirate

It's not really an off road truck. I take it camping and snowboarding, and the occasional unpaved road - I'd just like the utility to be there when I need it - plus the looks factor into it a little. Mostly, I want to lose the bottoming out in the rear, and have the 4 inch lift consistent, front to rear.

I'm not sure what BJ spacers are, but will look into that as well.

Thanks guys for the ideas!
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:36 PM
  #10  
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From: palmer ak
bj spacers are ball joint spacers there really cheap less than 100 bucks i believe
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by akyota1990
bj spacers are ball joint spacers there really cheap less than 100 bucks i believe

I found them (Google is amazing....).

Thanks everyone - will update you when I get my exhaust and Timing chain installed this month with pics

Phil
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #12  
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From: pacifica
lots of help love it so if you take the blocks out and replace the leafs would you just use the same size lift leafs as the blocks ex.4 in block get 4-5 in lift leafs right ?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:06 PM
  #13  
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
Its been over two years, im sure he figured it out...
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #14  
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From: NC
dude yall should see my cuz's taco lol. i know she at least has to have 4" block in the rear with bracket lift. her rear springs are like a upside down U, she thinks it flex's and calls it a buggy lol. ditch those blocks
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Kids these days....
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:03 PM
  #17  
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
WOW - my first post ever here and it's resurrected from the dead!

Abe - you appeared here first, and now you're helping me out on my transmission swap - thanks

It's been a while and I've learnt quite a lot since then. Here's what's happened on the truck since:

- 20,000+ more miles
- new timing chain kit (ENGNBLDR)
- LCE header and exhaust system
- ZUK mod in the rears (lost the blocks!) - evens it out with the 4" bracket lift up front
- transmission took a crap and I've been swapping in a different W56 this month - hopefully get it in this week!
- bought some chevy 63" springs and the sky mounting kit, and a 220V welder in October...hope to get on that project in the spring/summer
- bought a Tuffy center console recently and look forward to rocking that with the top off this summer

Test drove a 2012 Trail 4Runner today - me like!

Sorry for not responding earlier - didn't have account set up to get notifications or something.

Cheers!

Phil
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