ok so how many miles are to many on rebuilding a block? also since im going to be bringing it to the machine shop to get resurfaced what else should i look into. maybe boring it out some, if so how much?

what have all you got done to your blocks on a rebuild?

 

really depends on your goals for the new motor.


ive rebuilt motors that had over 200K on em. some i have no idea.


the more you do, the more its gonna cost. you ready for that bill?

 

im ready for anything brotha.. the block i have right now has 263k on it.. i think. i can still see the hone marks in the cylinder walls but there are like these dark rings at the tops of the cylinder...

what i dont get is what gets weak on a block.. sure it may have a lot of miles but what gets weak. does heat weaken the cast iron.

 

It's not neccesarily how many miles, it's how much was it abused, or what was done to it before that caused a need for a rebuild. Some obvious things to check in the bottom end, crank journals, look for gouges, roughness or scratches, if so i'd replace. make sure it hasn't been decked or bored previously. u mention'd about the ridge in the cylinder, clean it up as good as possible and see if i can catch ur fingernail on it if so it will deffinatly need reamed and probably bored, wouldn't recomend anything over .040" over stock as the cylinder walls get too thin.. the deck height can be fixed with a thicker head gasket or a shim. I'd recommend a MLS head gasket like Cometic as u can get them in multiple thicknesses and it's more relaible than a shim. but the smaller the combustion chamber, the higher the compression so that means more hp. Just don't let the valves touch the pistons!!!! and higher octane fuel will be needed if u take it to far.

 

I'd say magna flux & hot tank it, bore the cylinders as little as possible ,align bore,have all surfaces checked for flatness,check the crank and rods

 

there are no ridges on the cylinders.. there are just dark rings at the tops of the cylinders.. like brown stains. the rest of the cylinder s you can see the hone marks clear as day. how do i know if it has been decked or already bored??

oh yeah im talking about the 3vze and the reason im going to rebuild the block is because i busted a rod...

 

You can thank Toyota for using a wicked good quality cast iron for their blocks. I've seen Toyota blocks with close to 300k on them, still with the cross hatch clear as day, and with no ridges at the top of the cylinder bores.

So long as you get proper machine work done, there's no reason not to rebuild what you've got.

 

3.4 hehe it should be fine man. maybe bore it but ther shouldnt be anything wrong with the block, you should be able to rebuild that thing and put another 267k on her haha.

 

Ok. Well there are no ridges what so ever on the block. Hatch marks are clear as day. I think I'm just going to get the block cleaned and surfaced.. How much would u guess that would run me

 

I would guess $2-300 mine was $80 for the magnaflux and hot tanked, total of $570 for magnaflux hot tank, align bored, cylinders bored 20 over, freeze plugs installed, all surfaces decked flat, rod bearings installed and rods shot penned

 

What is "rods shot penned"

 

He means shot peened and straightened, I'm sure. It strengthens the rods.

 

yep that is correct