95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Big 3 mod pictures

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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:10 AM
  #1  
Yukon's Avatar
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From: Marquette, MI
Big 3 mod pictures

So I Need to extendmy cables to fit a new battery, so I figure I may as well do the big 3 mod. after searching, I can't find any good pictures of where the wires connect.

I found the ground to body, And I can see where the Alt hooks up.
Do the cables go through that big cable loom? Do I have to cut that open to get to them?

A write up if anyone has it would be greatly appriciated. Its cold and windy out and I dont want to spend 4 hours guessing when I can be done in an hour.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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From: East Alton, IL
Ok when doing the big 3 mod you keep all existing wiring. You said you need to extend the cables???? Not sure why but ok. The positive does run down that big cable loom. and if you need to extend then I would suggest just splicing into it and running a extension. But on the big 3 mod you run all new wiring. The stock wiring I suggest you keep so there is even less resistance in the system from both sets of wires. All you do is run a secondary ground from the negative post on the battery to the frame. Then run a positive wire directly from the alt to the positive on the battery. The last on is running a negative wire from the engine to the frame. You want to ground the engine also. I suggest using the bracket the alt hooks up to. It's about the easiest to get to. I have not done the big 3 mod to my truck yet or I would post picture. But thats what Im doing today so I will have some up soon.

I hope that made sense lol

-Mark

Last edited by 4runnerteen; Oct 24, 2009 at 09:26 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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what is this mod??
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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Im getting a new battery, and it has regular posts instead of Reverse, so I figure just running new cable will be easiest.

What do I do about the wires going into the fuse box? Those are the main hold up, do I just extend those, or run new wire?

So I Will run one wire from the One bolt on the alt, to my positive? It looks like there is a wire coming out of the loom that splits off into the fuse box.

The negative side is easy, just add some grounds.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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From: East Alton, IL
True. Ok with the fuse block if you can get to it easily then I would say run a new wire from it to the battery and then do the big 3 mod to. If that is a problem then I would say just extend and then with the mod.

It all depends on if you can get to the wire loop and get to the pos. wire easily. On mine I think it is a little difficult but im not sure. I going out to the garage and putting the truck on the lift right now to start the mod so I will post pics soon of my progress.

The only problem I have is finding the connectors. the connectors for the wired im using are retarded large. Cause im using 3/0 gauge cable. Like building cable lol. Least amount of resistance humanly possible lol. YAY!

-Mark


Also about the wire on the alt. Yes run a wire directly from the bolt on the alt to the battery. Thus bypassing the system and creating a direct charge onto the battery. Thus keeping it charged faster and having less resistance.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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ummm...why not just get a battery that has reverse terminals?? Seems to me that would be alot easier.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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thanks bgmac for that. I am missing something here....
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Battery im getting doesn't have reverse terminals. The die hard platinum, group 34. Tey dont offer it on a 34R. The Odyssey equivalent is about 100 bucks more.

Regardless what battery I'm buying, I still want to do the mod.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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Ok so how do you get the white wire out of the fuse box? the one closest to the battery? I cant seem to get it out.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 04:20 PM
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You have to separate the middle/main part of the box from the base...it's easier to do if you remove the base/box first- the three 10mm bolts.
Once you get it separated, you'll see a very small bolt that attaches the wire.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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harness removed...
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 07:30 PM
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From: Fort St. John
The point of the mod is to put better conducting wires on your critical battery grounds as well as the wires from the battery to the alternator and to the starter. When you do this you decrease resistance in the system and create more electrical flow to your starter for better starting in cold weather. Also, you increase the flow in the alternator circuit which in turn makes it easier for the alternator to charge the battery. This is helpful when running any extra electrical circuits. Hope this clears up the confusion.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by dannomite
The point of the mod is to put better conducting wires on your critical battery grounds as well as the wires from the battery to the alternator and to the starter. When you do this you decrease resistance in the system and create more electrical flow to your starter for better starting in cold weather. Also, you increase the flow in the alternator circuit which in turn makes it easier for the alternator to charge the battery. This is helpful when running any extra electrical circuits. Hope this clears up the confusion.
Just seems like alot of extra work....if you have that many extra electrical circuits its probably time to do a second batter or H.O. alternator IMO
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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From: Fort St. John
A second battery or a high output battery still benefit from improving the wiring in the same way as a stock system. You have to remember that the factory uses the most cost effective items not the best option available. This gets a little more out of an electrical system without going to the other setups you mentioned. That said if you did both or all three that would be the best. And as someone who has done this I don't think it is that much work.
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