Okay i know what your probably thinking, yes i am new at all of this but i have done plenty of research about 3rd gen. 4runner lifts and i know about everything thats out theere. But i want an answer from somebody who is use to using there runner for mainly mud. i live in north florida/ south georgia. Mainly the only thing we deal with here is mud. And i was wondering if i have to worry a whole lot with the amount of flex and stuff if all im going to do is take it through some mud. Theres no mountains here. im on a highschool budget and plenty of people around here do spacer lifts and what not for there chevys and fords. would i need to worry soo much as to have the extra flex from coilovers and such. All im looking to do is fit 285's. Bigger tires always help a little.

 

Welcome to Yotatech.

 

Throw a 1" or 2" body lift on it and call it done.
Simple as.....




Fred

 

now will a 1 or 2 inch body lift allow me to clear 285s? i know they help with clearance issues

 

search for the lifts.. a ton of threads that will address what you need. With trimming and cutting there is a lot that you can do. Would a locker do you more good than lift? That would be one thing to consider.

Welcome to YT!

 

I can't say specifically as I don't have a 3rd Gen to check.
I think that you're thinking 35's which is what 285's (depending on wheel diameter and the width) would convert out to.
2nd Gens came stock (with the option tire and wheel package) with 31's. 35's are 2" bigger so, assuming nothing gets in the way width wise, then a 2" bl would allow you to run 35's.
Now, having said that, without re-gearing it's going to suck for sure.
Also braking (brakes as in stopping) is going to take a big hit.
Lastly, steering components are going to take a lot of stress.

For someone on a "high school budget" IMHO, you're looking at too much.
YOu may wish to set your sights a little lower for now.




Fred

 

285 = 33's (approx)

 

yeahh 285's are 33's. i already have the rear locker since i have a limited 96, didnt seem to mention that earlier. and im not worried about regearing since it came stock with 4.30 gears

 

Im in the same boat you are. I have a 97 Runner. I want it lifted, but I dont have much money. Not looking at anything intense, just a lift so i can take it threw a bit of mud, and some easy trails up on the mountain.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

 

a 2" body lift with some trimming should be able to fit the 285's, probably with a little rubbing at full turn. not the biggest fan of the body lifts but with a high school budget it definitly beats a spacer lift

 

Get some new coils for lift ($170 pr. at toytec.com).

 

Got some Fabtech adj coilovers 1'-3.5" for sale 250 + shipping

 

Have you considered a spacer lift for now instead of a body lift? (we have some on our scratch and dent forum)

It will help to raise the belly of your rig, so when you go through the mud hole, you have a little more ground clearance.

 

Just be aware that if you are going to put a spacer lift in the front, your steering knuckle will sit closer to the coil. So when you flex you will most likely hit the coil with that knuckle. I have an o2 tacoma and i did a 3 inch spacer lift. Im having that problem right now.

 

Who's spacer are you running?
Our's won't cause that problem, otherwise we wouldn't be in business. Who would buy it?

 

You have a unique problem. I had spacers and my steering knuckles were fine as well as dozens that I've seen over the years. There is something not right with the geometry of your suspension, or perhaps you have the wrong kind of shocks. I know you said in your other thread that they are stock, but it seems like they are most likely causing your problems.

If you took an adjustable Bilstein, maxed it out to it's tallest position and then stuck a spacer on top, you would get similar results.

 

i just requested for a refund to the company, it said 100%satisfaction guarantee. How do your spacers bolt up compared to as just on the top?

 

we use a spacer that actually goes just on top of your spring, but below the mounting hardware, pre-loading your spring.

This design doesn't allow for over extending your IFS components.