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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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Intimidated...

Alright... so here's the deal.. I have a 94 4Runner that I've had since December of last year...A few months ago I started to notice a really strong odor of fuel. I did some nosing around, and best I can tell it's coming from the top of the injectors ( I'm presuming from bad o rings from the fuel rail, to the injector )

***EDIT*** I should mention that it's the drivers side injectors. The passenger side ones are dry. Also, the vehicle had it's head gaskets done the November or so before I got it ( that owuld be November of 07, I got it December of 08 )

The injector looks wet, and sometimes I can actually see liquid, but not pouring out. The truck still runs, and get's me places, but with obviously reduced performance in the mileage department.

I've got my hands on the FSM for 95 model years ( from what I can tell, the 3vze didn't change from 94 to 95 ) and I've used that to help me understand the apparent nightmare that is working on the upper half of this engine.

So... my question is.. is it really that many steps to work on the injectors? I'm pretty confident in my ability to follow pictures and words ( I'm alright when it comes to working on vehicles... I'm no where near most of you guys (and possibly gals ) on here.. but I'm confident enough in my abilities to do this.. I think.

Is there anyway to possibly re-seat the injectors without taking off the intake chamber and all associated components with it? Should I pick up a Chilton or Haynes to assist? This would easily be the most significant project I've ever undertook on a vehicle I've owned...Or... should I just try and bring it to a shop?

I'm desperate here... because there is a huge chance that I might have to drive it, towing a uhaul trailer to Indiana in 3 weeks.... ( forced to move out of state here in AZ ) And... I suspect that I should fix it... before trying that trek.

Last edited by QuickPaws; Aug 6, 2009 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 12:58 AM
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If you downloaded the FSM from this link: http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
those manuals are Toyota factory Manuals--they are gonna have much more accurate information than a Haynes or Chiltons manual IMO.

Maybe get a guestimate from a shop..@ $65-75++/Hour you are probably gonna want to try it yourself.

Definitely get your fuel system squared away before you get stranded.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 03:00 AM
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I replaced all the injectors on my 3VZE with a buddy and we had barely any idea of what we were doing. Its not too bad, just be careful and remember where everything goes. Unfortunately my buddy put it all back together when I wasn't there and messed up a couple of the o-rings again. So I'll be looking at doing it again this fall when the temps are a bit cooler. I think you'll be alright
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ocdropzone
If you downloaded the FSM from this link: http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
those manuals are Toyota factory Manuals--they are gonna have much more accurate information than a Haynes or Chiltons manual IMO.

Maybe get a guestimate from a shop..@ $65-75++/Hour you are probably gonna want to try it yourself.

Definitely get your fuel system squared away before you get stranded.

Awesome. Thanks for the heads up on the FSM's.... I think this link is actually where I got mine from ( I recognize the purdy pictshures )

You think I'm right with my guess as to where the fuel is coming from? The only other place I would think it could come from would be the rail itself ( if it was broken ) but I would think that there would be more obvious issues if that was the case.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by nosfanatic2006
I replaced all the injectors on my 3VZE with a buddy and we had barely any idea of what we were doing. Its not too bad, just be careful and remember where everything goes. Unfortunately my buddy put it all back together when I wasn't there and messed up a couple of the o-rings again. So I'll be looking at doing it again this fall when the temps are a bit cooler. I think you'll be alright


How long did it take you? I know all about those cooler temps... the other day it was 100 degrees here before it was even 9am. >.<

One thing I'm concerned about is the o rings themselves.. AutoZone only seems to carry one set (part number ES70600) and it calls it the "Lower set, 2 required" I can't seem to find anyone that sells "complete sets" Also, it seems to be only the driver side with problems, is it possible just to replace those, or should I just do all 6?

I'm sorry for seeming brainless, but I really need to make sure that this thing gets me where we need to go. I do -not- want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere with my fiance, and 5 dogs....
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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From the sounds of your trip, I would say all 6. Getting to the drivers side will require enough work that replacing all should be a snap. Remember where stuff came from, the FSM has all the info, and you have this forum as well. Time to take care if this should be about 3 hours (I just did it on my 95) I also got all the o-rings and grumets from local Toyota Dealer, not to spendy
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mac9968
From the sounds of your trip, I would say all 6. Getting to the drivers side will require enough work that replacing all should be a snap. Remember where stuff came from, the FSM has all the info, and you have this forum as well. Time to take care if this should be about 3 hours (I just did it on my 95) I also got all the o-rings and grumets from local Toyota Dealer, not to spendy
I was wondering about the dealership approach or not for parts. If I can pry, do you remember how much it was? I'm on a REALLY tight budget ( like, all the money I have needs to go towards the possible move )
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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Don't be skered it won't be all that bad...well shouldn't be. Take you time, invite a friend over so he/she can tease you a bit and you'll have it done before you know it. You should get a roll of masking tape and a marker, keep it all labeled.

Just called the dealer, Up here the are running $3.00 and $3.29 for the grommets, Each...So $20.00 and you are on your way. I'm not sure if you'll need the grommets or not.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Lumpy
Don't be skered it won't be all that bad...well shouldn't be. Take you time, invite a friend over so he/she can tease you a bit and you'll have it done before you know it. You should get a roll of masking tape and a marker, keep it all labeled.

Just called the dealer, Up here the are running $3.00 and $3.29 for the grommets, Each...So $20.00 and you are on your way. I'm not sure if you'll need the grommets or not.

Oh that's not too bad at all. I presume that's 3 bucks for all of the per injector? ( I'm looking at the FSM and from the bottom up, it goes o ring, grommet, then something that isn't labled, injector, and another o ring then the fuel pipe. ) I'm confused what that unlabled part is.. is that another o ring? Is it something that can be reused?

Again.. I'm sorry >.< I just want all my ducks in a row.. it's 1. My only vehicle, so I'd like to make sure I have everything I need before ya know.. ripping it apart. and 2. I wanna make sure I do it right.

Also appreciate you making that phone call, that's pretty epic.

Thanks again for all the words of wisdom.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Looking at the FSM page EG2-224 the 2nd picture down, it says (from left to right) Fuel Rail -- O-Ring/Grommet -- Injector -- Spacer/Grommet/O-ring -- Injector hole

Also check the page EG2-218, kind of a better picture there as well.

Also a hint, gasoline dries quite fast. You can also use Vaseline (or spit) on the O-rings to lubricate them to slide back into the fuel rail and injector hole. It is totally safe and will burn off.

Last edited by BoostinChick; Aug 7, 2009 at 10:52 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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$3.oo for each o-ring and $3.29 for each Grommet. I'm not sure if you need the Grommets but for another $20.00 I think I'd change them too...

Not a problem, I'm at work and it's a bit slow today.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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If the O-rings and grommets are hard like plastic they need to be changed.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BoostinChick
Looking at the FSM page EG2-224 the 2nd picture down, it says (from left to right) Fuel Rail -- O-Ring/Grommet -- Injector -- Spacer/Grommet/O-ring -- Injector hole

Also check the page EG2-218, kind of a better picture there as well.

Also a hint, gasoline dries quite fast. You can also use Vaseline (or spit) on the O-rings to lubricate them to slide back into the fuel rail and injector hole. It is totally safe and will burn off.
Good thing FireFox crashed on me. >.< I was getting ready to tell you that I didn't have page numbers... Then I opened my eyes. go me.

Those are the pages I'm looking at too.. I think I'm just intimidated by all the actual individual parts... I'm completely confident I can take it apart.

It's putting it back together that worries me >.<
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Lumpy
$3.oo for each o-ring and $3.29 for each Grommet. I'm not sure if you need the Grommets but for another $20.00 I think I'd change them too...

Not a problem, I'm at work and it's a bit slow today.

Oh oh... alright. So we're talking like 13 bucks an injector then. ( 2 o rings and 2 grommets per injector, providing I understood Ms. Boostin, and the pictures from the FSM )

Hopefully I can pull those funds together.. the move alone is 1600 plus.... and I'm nervous enough about that as it is if it actually happens
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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Don't wanna hear that. Lemme tell ya something. I've been working on cars for a while now, most of it has not been too major.

Well, I was a bit intimidated when my HG went on my Pickup. Well I had it done in a weekend, lapped the valves and tossed a cam in. I really was surprised that everything went together like it did. Get some plastic cups or baggies and label them so you know what goes where; right side, left side, upper intake, what ever. Just keep things half organized and you'll do alright. As long as you are slightly mechanically incline. Jump in there and have at it. Remember PB Blaster is your friend.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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123456
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Lumpy
Don't wanna hear that. Lemme tell ya something. I've been working on cars for a while now, most of it has not been too major.

Well, I was a bit intimidated when my HG went on my Pickup. Well I had it done in a weekend, lapped the valves and tossed a cam in. I really was surprised that everything went together like it did. Get some plastic cups or baggies and label them so you know what goes where; right side, left side, upper intake, what ever. Just keep things half organized and you'll do alright. As long as you are slightly mechanically incline. Jump in there and have at it. Remember PB Blaster is your friend.
I'm decently mechanically inclined. ( I'm also a nerd.. build my own computers, and tinker with all things electronic...I have no qualms taking apart a 4 thousand dollar TV.. but my truck.. sheesh )

PB Blaster is the best thing on the planet. It's even better when yer using it to get the crankshaft position sensor of a 97 Exploder, and yer dumb enough to look under it after you spray and it drips in your eye.

( I don't have the exploder anymore, that was years ago ) Toyota FTW now.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Lumpy
123456
.... Ok.. every reply you made up to this one.. I understood.. >.<
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by QuickPaws
.... Ok.. every reply you made up to this one.. I understood.. >.<
I had a post that I didn't like...Didn't fully read one of yours and I was going to tease you. But in the end it would have been me being teased so I made it all gone.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Lumpy
I had a post that I didn't like...Didn't fully read one of yours and I was going to tease you. But in the end it would have been me being teased so I made it all gone.

Oh good grief... lol @ me... I just tried to post a simple LOL! and the forum yelled at me telling me that my message was too short >.<
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